All about spine.

[MattE]

You are right Art. You can change the value of your tester and get a close reading. One thing that I have found out about cane is the base diameter is a good indicator to measure spine.It is far from exact but close enough that I don't have to use a tester.Cane seems to be less sensitive than other materials when shot.I suppose this is due to its natural taper? 

[artcher1]

On the cane and some of the other boo you certainly can gauge your spine pretty close to each other by diameter alone once you have a good idea of where to start. Tonkin it seems, is the worst offender for this method though.

Cane/boo's natural taper does two thing Matte. It moves more weight forward for better arrow recovery in flight but also lessens paradox. Simply put, it uses it's natural taper to reduce paradox by giving you a sight picture of a larger diameter arrow at full draw but leaves the bow as a smaller diameter arrow. -ART B

[MattE]

Well said! I have felt that the taper was the reason I have no trouble getting the arrows to work. I wasn't sure exactly what all was taking place but your statement was in line with my thiking.

[artcher1]

Matte, have you noticed that you'll get that same effect off the shelf /hand from these tapered shafts? Got to elevate my shot a little higher myself when shooting full tapered vs just rear tapered arrows. Perhaps a slight string nock adjustment downward would eliminate that "down hill" effect. -ART B

[MattE]

I have noticed that it makes little difference how your arrows rest.Most of my bows are shot off the fist and they shoots well. I also bare shaft my arrows when tuning in a new bow. I have been doing it this way since the eighties.When I do this I generally move the nocking point down slightly,this eliminates most of the nock high readings one normally gets.When the arrow is fletched I move the nock back up to a good shootng position. You mentioned having to elevate your shot? This leads me to think you shoot instinctive? If this be the case try useing the gap method just to add to the picture. The reason being if your nock is high,not extremely high, a gap shooters arrow will hit a bit higher,just the opposite of what an instinctive shooter experiences.This is what I am getting but this is still only theory on my part. 

[artcher1]

Good read Matte, yeah, I'm pretty much an instinctive shooter. Or was. Due to ever changing physical requirements I've gone to gap shooting here of late. But I shoot both styles equally bad anymore .

What I was referring to, the same benefit you get from tapered arrows around the handle, is not beneficial over the hand/shelf in itself. Going from large point end to small nock end creates that down hill effect that I previously mentioned. But if the bow is tuned for this then it doesn't matter. Which none of mine are because I mostly shoot parallel rear tapered arrows. A very noticable difference when both types of arrows are shot together though. I just aim a little higher when shooting natural or full tapered of arrows instead of adjusting my string nock.-ART B

[mullet]

   YooooHooo!,Glad you're posting Art.Everytime you do I learn something about arrows.If nothing else,how to cut boo.

[Ludi Mile]

Hey, is there some primitive method to measure spine? I mean, how was it done before invention of testers?

[DanaM]

Shoot the arra and see what happens I guess

DanaM

[Pat B]

What you are doing with a spine tester is measuring the deflection of the arrow. If you have arrows of differant spine weights you can stick 2 nails in the wall 26" apart, place the arrow on the nails and hang a weight at the center. Mark the deflection of each arrow so you will have a referance.
   You can test the spine by feel also. After you do it a bit you will feel the differance between differant arrows. Pat

[Badger]

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