started third bow . FLATBOW with pICTURES take a look

[15yearold.archer]

hey guys heres my flatbow i started its 66 ntn 2 1/2 wide till 20 from tips than a straight taper to 1/2 the handles 4 inches long and fades are asbout 1 1/2 havent stasrted thickness yet ill keep a straighht taper of 7/16 from fades to tips should this be heavy enough for deer tell me whats you think !

[attachment deleted by admin]

[Pat B]

The profile should allow for plenty of hunting weight.   Does your handle fade into the limb at the widest point or is the bevel at each end of the handle riser your thickness fade? 

[15yearold.archer]

well i dont exatly know what you mean but if this helps the " 7/16" of an inch are going to start at the widest point yes.. and ive never heard of anyone hunting with a bow of the style that i am making are they not very efficient or something?

[Marc St Louis]

Show us a side profile of the handle area

[Pat B]

That would be a good, reliable hunting bow style.
 Yes, show us the handle profile. The should handle fade into the limb in thickness as well as width.

[Josh]

you need to make sure that the glued on handle area flares out to the widest point of your fades and doesn't taper before it leaves the narrowest part of the grip.  If your bow is 2.5 inches wide that is where the handle piece needs to start.  It looks like in the picture the handle  thickness starts tapering in before it flares out to the limb which is bad. 

In the first photo you can see how the red handle tapers into the widest part of the limb.  This keeps the handle from bending and adds strength.  The second photo shows a bow that is destined to fail because an area that is gonna be under alot of stress is too thin and narrow.  Hope this makes sense.  The arrows in the photo show areas of high stress when the bow is strung/drawn.

[attachment deleted by admin]

[15yearold.archer]

mine is like the bottom picture so do i pry it off and re- do the handle area to look like the top.. and the handles angle will continue on through the main board and then straighten out to my desired thickness

[Josh]

yes, pry it off and do it like the first pic.  as the handle narrows, it should also be thickening.   Otherwise it WILL break. 

[15yearold.archer]

there shes fixed all up an looking just like the first picture well after glue dries and i cut off extra wood buut .. the tips on one of my limbs got shaved down uncarfully and about the last 3 inches is now a tiny bit smaller then 3/8s my original plan was to go 7/16 throughout what do i do? if i just try and keep it 7/16 almost all the way and then match the other tip to make it even will it still turn out alright.. and i really want this to be my bow for deer this year not sure if it will be strong enough now

[Josh]

Just tiller it CAREFULLY and don't scrape any more off at that spot until you get the rest of the limb working... I have 60 lb red oak bow and the tips are alot thinner than that.   Check your PM's I sent you a message.     Good luck!

[Josh]

here's some better pics to help you see how the fades and handle are supposed to transition with each other.. belly and side view. 

[attachment deleted by admin]

[youngbowyer33]

looks plenty wide enough for a good heavy bow. Now it's up to you

[ken75]

they steered you right 15 , it would have failed in the fade. and Josh those are some nifty diagrams 

[Josh]

LOL thanks Ken.  I love to draw with Microsoft Paint.