Request for advise - Hickory backed PH

[dstbstr]

Hey, it's my first post.  I've been reading lots of fascinating articles on the forum, and thought I'd ask for some advise.  I've got about 6 bows behind me, though only 2 of them shoot, and they're both red oak.    I'm currently working on a hickory back purple heart bow, and would like recommendations, as the last bow I made is now a 'trophy bow' and the one before that experienced 'explosive decompression.'

The two woods are glued together with TB3, approximately 72" long.  The hickory is somewhere between 1/4" and 1/8" (yay for a rasp, hand planer, and a cabinet scraper).  The PH is a remnant from a prior bow, so the center is the thinest part at about 3/4".  I could cut a riser out of one of the ends to stiffen it up.  I'm hoping to get about a 40# bow out of this one.  I'm thinking of trying to do a stiff handle with a shelf, so that I can use it for target archery.

I'll be out over the weekend, but hope to hear recommendations for dimensions.  Thanks, and keep up the archery.

[Josh]

I am currently working on an ash backed purpleheart bow and I have heard that it likes to fret easily.. That being said I would make it as wide/long as possible and get every portion of the working limb bending evenly.  Also the hickory might overpower the PH so 1/8 to 3/16ths backing might be your best bet.   And I would trap the back too. Good luck on yours.   

[dstbstr]

Thanks, I'm hoping to get more done on it soon.  I had a first attempt at a hickory backed PH, but the PH cracked on the top limb about 4 inches below the nock.  I may turn it into a kid's bow by taking off about 4 inches from either side and scraping down the back to around 1/8" and scraping down the belly to a kids weight bow.  As for this one, I'll try something in between an ELB and a pyramid bow I guess

[medicinewheel]

I made a successful PH bow with a maple backing, but even that one had a tiny fret that I patched with rawhide/wrapping. Once I've seen one with a bamboo backing; if...IF...you find a board with no curles it'll be no problem.

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[dstbstr]

That is a gorgeous bow.  It looks like you cut through the backing on the tips, I thought that was kind of a 'no-no' but if it shoots, I won't argue.   What woods did you use on the handle?  Well, back to work on mine, I'll post some pictures if it starts coming out nicely

[medicinewheel]

The rider is Osage and Wenge.
Here is what the tips look like. Yes, I cut through the backing, almost always do that, never had a problem. How could you tell from the pic??

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[JW_Halverson]

Ooh, sexy bow!  Does she shoot as hot as she looks, Medicinewheel?

[denny]

Love that purple heart. Nice job , That osage makes a nice contrast hey ! Denny

[medicinewheel]

PH sure makes for a nice bow if it doesn't fret!
This is a light weight being shot with a FF string, and she really rocks!

PS: Sorry I don't want to hijack this thread, here is more info on this bow:

http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,5171.msg71417.html#msg71417

[dstbstr]

I've got the bow roughed out, and I've started to floor tiller.  I need to build myself a good tillering wall before I go too far.  My handle looks horrible, but live and learn.  It still feels like it's about a 200 pound bow, and that's starting at 3/4" on the arms and tapering to 1/2."  The sides taper from 2" down to 1/2".  Once I can get the bow strung I'll try to get a pic

[Frode]

Pics before stringing are fine too, especially if you have any concerns. 
Frode

[Almostpighunter]

Although it took 4 attempts, I managed to make a self bow from a purpleheart board. I was initially going by the TBB 1 which stated that a purpleheart flatbow at 65" for around 50# would need to be 1 5/8 inches wide. After 3 attempts I decided to make the limbs 2" wide, with pyramid style fades near the handle/riser and a flatbow taper at 14" from tip. The end result was a kind of pyramid/modoc + AFB hybrid that stayed together with no back lifting or belly chrys, 53#@28".

Honesty can't say if it stayed together due to design, superior piece of wood or pure blind luck...but this was my experience in any case.

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[dstbstr]

What was the size of the belly from the fades to the tips on the 53#@28"?  Mine starts at 3/4" and tapers from about 8 inches out of the handle to 1/2" at the nocks, but still feels like it's over 100# as I can't bend it much past a couple inches.

[Almostpighunter]

In this case I tapered the belly the same as a flatbow as opposed to a pyramid style bow. The board was originally 65" x 2" x 3/4"  immediately began the belly reduction at the fades  (3/4" to a final 3/8") but the 2" width was maintained from the fade until about the final 14" where I began to reduce the width of the limb until 3/8" at the tip.

I put a call in to my father (the bow went to him for father's day) to double check on the 14" as this is the only measurement I don't remember exactly.