need a new bow , suggestions?

[ken75]

i dont normally stir the poop pot on here but this post ticked me off. on one post its great to get youngsters started but on another we get a little self righteous and jump on someone just because in frustration over not having a hunt worthy bow they reach for a known substitute like fiberglass ("the f word"). i realize this is Primitive Archery ,i just didnt realize it was snooty archery !
 
15yearold.archer i know Marc is closer and more qualified and keep in mind i have no experience with fiberglass but if i can help in any way my email is on my profile i would be glad to assist if possible

moderators it is not my intent to start an argument if this offends yall delete it

[15yearold.archer]

okay thank you for the ideas and when i mean sluggish i guess its just mine everytime i shoot it it gets less and less heavy i just want a bow thats will really snap back maybe i just need alot more weight and marc st.louis im guessing the pow wows in golden lake? .. if so ya that would be great ive heard of people using ironwood to make bows and it is around here but i dont know were and what it looks like

[Kegan]

okay thank you for the ideas and when i mean sluggish i guess its just mine everytime i shoot it it gets less and less heavy i just want a bow thats will really snap back maybe i just need alot more weight and marc st.louis im guessing the pow wows in golden lake? .. if so ya that would be great ive heard of people using ironwood to make bows and it is around here but i dont know were and what it looks like

That sluggishness and weight loss is from not building it properly. I actually built a 50# red oak board bow that, side by side with a 50# fiberglass laminated longbow, out shot it with the same arrows. I later gave the bow away. I've also built red oak bows pulling 60-70#, and have a made a couple bows from hickory that outshoot glass laminated bows with the same grains per pound arrows- and I'm not really that careful !

What you want to do is make your red oak bows wide or long. Try one of these:

D bow without wooden built up handle: 66-68" nock to nock, 1 3/8" wide in the middle 20" (no difference in handle), tapering to 3/8" tips. Thickness should be about 3/4" in the middle 4" tapering to 3/8" at the tips.

Pyramid flatbow: 66" or so nock to nock, 2 1/2" wide from the ends of the fades for about 10", tapering straight to 3/8" nocks. Thickness should be about 7/16" over the entire limb, with the section under the handle left thicker to prevent it form popping off. Handle can be whatever you want, I like 1" wide, 4 1/2" long, about 1 1/2" thick, with 2 1/2" long fades.

Those dimensions and slow, careful tillering should yield a good, hunting weight bow. Pictures from past bows here should give you an idea what to shoot for, no pun intended.

[half eye]

Hey 15,
      I'm with Ken, if I can help ya build some self bows my email is on the profile also. There is no reason why ya cant build a hunting bow with what ya have, and do it without waiting a year either......glad to help if I can.
rich

[15yearold.archer]

kegan i like the pyramid bow idea a little better but with it being 66 inches will it be able to be pulled to full daw , 26/27 " is mine, also im kinda confused like i said im really new to this i have no doubt i can do it i just need a little more detail if you can also do i back it ? and do i just glue another piece of redoak on for the handle then shape a riser and arrow rest? and half eye im sure ill be talking to you on some more advice about this thanks alot !

[colejack3]

omg.....

[15yearold.archer]

Wat

[Marc St Louis]

I will keep in touch and let you know if/when we go down.

In any case, if you need help feel free to contact me

[15yearold.archer]

Ok that's great thanks alot

[Kegan]

I've built bows 66" nock to nock pulling 70+# at my 29.5" draw. Yes, it will be enough

You can back it if you'd like, I like using cotton cloth (the stuff like you'd find on a table cloth, not thin like a bed sheet or thick blue jeans), but if the grain is straight you don't have to.

Yes, a second piece of red oak from the end of the board will work perfectly for a handle. I'd avoid cutting a deep arrow shelf though, you seem to be having enough trouble as it is (no offense !!!)

Search for pyramid bows here in the bow forum. Pay close attention to the fades and tiller. Oh, and forthe thickness I lied, at 2 1/2" wide it should be 3/8" thick over the entire limb.

[15yearold.archer]

ok thats good but i actualy started a different kinda of bow kinda based off dimensions you had told me for the D bow only its actualy a bow with handle and an 8 inch riser overall ive kept the limbs wide so far right till about 16 inches from the tips then a straight and kinda rounded taper to 1/2 inch at the tips its looking really good as for thickness im  going to drop to about 3/4 and after the fades and try and keep a fairly smooth taper about 3/8 at the tips does that sound good? and ill back it with some veneir  what kinda poundage might i have

[Kegan]

If it's holding together, then it sounds good! As for poundage, only you can determine that. Wood density plays a big role, and you didn't mention the width or length or draw. There's no way for us to give you exact dimensions for a bow and you get an exact weight.

Personally, if you're looking for weight then don't bother with fancy. Just make a D bow (no handle) as wide as you can hold and shoot, and tiller it out. You can make a pretty hefty bow like that, I've made bows from 60#-over 70# without any issue in just an afternoon. Simple is good