An ipe bow will end up very skinny for it's draw weight. if you make it as wide as other woods you just own't be able to pull it or it will end up very shallow in depth. This can be a real problem with a boo backed Ipe bow.
Ipe doesn't much like to bend, so pronounced recurves etc are difficult.
Ipe can come in diffeent basic colours and types as Ipe is a family of trees rather than a specific species. Some will have a green tinge, others yellow or reddish. Ipe means "BOW WOOD" in the native language!
The natives make unbacked bows similar to Englsih longbows, but these are failry long and lowish in draw weight.
It is very strong in compression and works very well in a bow backed with hickory or bamboo.
I have got 100lbs draw out of a bow 1 less than 1.25 inches wide.
I have used resorcinol and found it works well. I degreased with acetone of cellulose thinners.
The dust is not good for you so wear a face mask.
Darker areas of the wood tend to be harder and stronger and give stiff patches.
Ipe is very resistant to taking set. It'll put up with a lot of abuse so though difficult to work is quite good to learn on.
I have found that going slow and taking off wood with scrapers and files is the best way to tiller. Exercise the wood well, scrape, exercise well, check shape, scrape. Take your time as rushing can give hinges or a suddenly underweight bow. All of a sudden the wood will give in and weight can drop quite suddenly or shape change.
I have found Danish oil a good finish as it really brings out the colour and g rain of the Ipe.
I have built some durable backed bows that have had quite dramatic grain run off.
Don't build a narrow highly reflexed bow. It will make you cry!
Mark in England
