Main Discussion Area > Arrows
Trouble with arrows
1/2primitive:
I am having a bit of trouble with my arrows being too heavy.The typical arrow that you shoot is approximately 10 gpp, right? But I can't get my arrows for my 43 lb. bow lighter than 475 gr. I don't know if the spine is too stiff on them, because I have nothing to compare them against. I'm afraid that if I scrape them any more they will be too flexible. Should I take them down some and experiment to see how they fly?
And one more, how heavy should my hunting arrows be? would 500 grains work?
Sean
Hillbilly:
10 gpp isn't carved in stone, just a good overall weight. I have shot arrows from 45#-ish bows ranging from 350-grains to well over 600 grains with good results-475 grains should work great. The heavier ones are good for hunting, but drop more at longer ranges. If you get too light, you can risk damaging the bow. What are you making your shafts from, and what diameter are they? Different woods or even different batches of the same wood species can vary greatly in weight. Most of my arrows for mid-40's bows are 5/16" dia. Spine is more important than weight for good flight, but that can also vary wildly even within the same kind of wood. If you want lighter arrows, just experiment with one to see how it flies after you reduce it. Tapering from just behind the center to the nock end of the arrow can remove weight without changing spine too much, and can also give better flight sometimes.
1/2primitive:
Thanks, Hillbilly, I'm making my arrows out of dowels from a craft store (I want quick arrows that will fly well because I lose all of mine :D), but I will be trying some mulefat and sourwood.
My draw length is 23" and my arrows are 25", so acording to the chart link in the 'all about spine' topic, my arrows should be spined very low, around 30-35lb. Should I try a really flexible arrow trying to get closer to the proper spine that I 'should' be shooting?
Sean
Pat B:
Sean, Shot placement and head sharpness are more important than a few grains of arrow weight. I was just reading an article in Traditional Bowhunter about this same subject. If you have or can obtain a copy of the most recent issue, it is an interesting read. If necessary you can barrel taper(tapered at both ends) to reduce physical weight without reducing spine weight. OR!...you can learn to shoot heavy arrows. Once you get the hang of it you can be lethal with 1000gr arrows out of a 45# bow. You just have to learn the arch. That is when you really get into ARCHery!
When it comes to shoot arrows(sour wood or mule fat) you can reduce the spine weight 10#(or more) just for the natural taper. Being that your arrows are so short they will be stiffer for any given diameter. With arrow spine measured at 28" and for every inch over or under 28" you can subtract or add 5# of spine weight you should be shooting arrows that are 15# under your draw weight.
Do you have any cane for arrows? if not I will send you some to try. You can still fine tune them but they seem to be less seceptable to spine change. Pat
1/2primitive:
Thanks Pat, I guess I will just get used to the arch then.
I would love some cane. I have six cane shafts, but they are very heavy and stiff for the bows I'm using. I have used bamboo but I don't have any more.
Maybe I sould just get a spine tester instead of guessing ;).
Sean
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