Trouble with arrows

[1/2primitive]

I am having a bit of trouble with my arrows being too heavy.The typical arrow that you shoot is approximately 10 gpp, right? But I can't get my arrows for my 43 lb. bow lighter than 475 gr. I don't know if the spine is too stiff on them, because I have nothing to compare them against. I'm afraid that if I scrape them any more they will be too flexible. Should I take them down some and experiment to see how they fly?

And one more, how heavy should my hunting arrows be? would 500 grains work?
      Sean

[Hillbilly]

10 gpp isn't carved in stone, just a good overall weight. I have shot arrows from 45#-ish bows ranging from 350-grains to well over 600 grains with good results-475 grains should work great. The heavier ones are good for hunting, but drop more at longer ranges. If you get too light, you can risk damaging the bow. What are you making your shafts from, and what diameter are they? Different woods or even different batches of the same wood species can vary greatly in weight.  Most of my arrows for mid-40's bows are 5/16" dia. Spine is more important than weight for good flight, but that can also vary wildly even within the same kind of wood. If you want lighter arrows, just experiment with one to see how it flies after you reduce it. Tapering from just behind the center to the nock end of the arrow can remove weight without changing spine too much, and can also give better flight sometimes.

[1/2primitive]

Thanks, Hillbilly, I'm making my arrows out of dowels from a craft store (I want quick arrows that will fly well because I lose all of mine ), but I will be trying some mulefat and sourwood.

My draw length is 23" and my arrows are 25", so acording to the chart link in the 'all about spine' topic, my arrows should be spined very low, around 30-35lb. Should I try a really flexible arrow trying to get closer to the proper spine that I 'should' be shooting?
      Sean

[Pat B]

Sean, Shot placement and head sharpness are more important than a few grains of arrow weight. I was just reading an article in Traditional Bowhunter about this same subject. If you have or can obtain a copy of the most recent issue, it is an interesting read. If necessary you can barrel taper(tapered at both ends) to reduce physical weight without reducing spine weight. OR!...you can learn to shoot heavy arrows. Once you get the hang of it you can be lethal with 1000gr arrows out of a 45# bow. You just have to learn the arch. That is when you really get into ARCHery!
 When it comes to shoot arrows(sour wood or mule fat) you can reduce the spine weight 10#(or more) just for the natural taper. Being that your arrows are so short they will be stiffer for any given diameter. With arrow spine measured at 28" and for every inch over or under 28" you can subtract or add 5# of spine weight you should be shooting arrows that are 15# under your draw weight.
  Do you have any cane for arrows? if not I will send you some to try. You can still fine tune them but they seem to be less seceptable to spine change.  Pat

[1/2primitive]

Thanks Pat, I guess I will just get used to the arch then.
I would love some cane. I have six cane shafts, but they are very heavy and stiff for the bows I'm using. I have used bamboo but I don't have any more.

Maybe I sould just get a spine tester instead of guessing .
     Sean

[Pat B]

Sean, You can make a spine tested(with a dial indicater) very easily and for not much money or you can make one that just compares arrows with a known spine which is usually good enough for primitive arrows.  2 nails 26" apart will do the trick. Hang an arrow on the nails then hang a small weight and mark the deflection of the arrow. That will give you a mark to shoot for with other shafts.  Pat

[1/2primitive]

But I don't know the spine of any of my arrow shafts. I just guess.
     Sean

[1/2primitive]

Oh, a dial indicator? do you know where I can get the plans?
     Sean

[DanaM]

Sean scroll down to the topic "Spine Tester??", there are some in there. I made one with dial indicator its ok, cost me about $30
Ordered the dial indicator from Harbor Freight, rest of the stuff from the hardware store.

DanaM

[1/2primitive]

All right Dana, I got the plans to one of the spine testers on that topic, but it wasn't explained real well for  a visual thinker like me. I don't know how to put it together. This is the one. http://www.geocities.com/archeryrob/pa_spine_tester.htm
     Sean

[DanaM]

This is the one I built
http://www.jamesmhill.com/Spine_Tester.html

DanaM

[Pat B]

Thats like the one I made Dana. It seems to be the most accurate.
Sean, I have some Bambusa cane that is too small for most but with your short draw length it should work fine. I'll try to get it out to you soon.    Pat

[DanaM]

it is a bit of a pain to get everything lined up, but keep tinkering and it gets there.
very generous Pat I'm sre Sean will put em to good use.

DanaM

[1/2primitive]

Thanks a lot Pat, I will put them to good use. Along with the sourwood. You're a great guy.
Dana, if I build one of those, I need something to compare it against. I don't have any arrows that I know the spine of, as I said before; I'm just guessing. Where did you get your dial Dana, or Pat? So that I can use the measurements of your's to get it right.
edit; Dana, what dial from Harbor freight was it?
      Sean

[DanaM]

I bought this one Sean
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=33675

You don't need to compare it to other arrows, print off the spine chart measured by deflection fer instance .650" = 40 lbs

I hope its ok to post non advertises website, don't wanna git in trouble

DanaM