Author Topic: need help  (Read 3028 times)

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kinkfeather

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Re: need help
« Reply #15 on: July 06, 2010, 07:13:27 pm »
how long do you make the riser.

Offline sailordad

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Re: need help
« Reply #16 on: July 06, 2010, 07:27:29 pm »
the handle area itself is 4" long
on most,but it al depends on the style of handle too
i have some where the nadle area is aboot 6" plus the 1.5" fades on each end
most my bows dont have a cut in shlef,just a floppy so the hadle area is 4" on them
i always wanted a harley,untill it became the "thing to ride"
i ride because i love to,not to be part of the crowd

kinkfeather

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Re: need help
« Reply #17 on: July 06, 2010, 07:50:17 pm »
i am like you i do not want a shelf.6"riser an 11/2"then fade to 1/2' end ok

Offline mullet

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Re: need help
« Reply #18 on: July 06, 2010, 08:09:59 pm »
 Like Josh said, go to George's site. It will help you a lot. Go there before you buy a board and learn how to buy the right board. Georges site will show you how to pick out a board that will give you more of a chance to complete a bow. All boards are not created equal. ;)
Lakeland, Florida
 If you have to pull the trigger, is it really archery?

Offline Rain Man

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Re: need help
« Reply #19 on: July 06, 2010, 08:14:17 pm »
I've made 3 red oak board bows.  Two from a 1 x 2 that was 72".  And one from a 1 x 3 that was 72".  With the 1 x 2's, I left the boards full width until 15" from the end.  So, of course I had to taper the belly as well.  With the 1 x 3, I made a pyramid bow.  So, no tapering of the belly at all.  The easiest bow, by far, is the pyramid bow.  There is very minimal tillering involved, as opposed to the others.  IMO, if you just want to get a quick and easy selfbow under your belt, get a 1 x 3 and make a pyramid bow.  

kinkfeather

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Re: need help
« Reply #20 on: July 06, 2010, 08:30:58 pm »
rain man,i have already bought 1x2x6.i have a 11/2 months to get it ready with all of you alls help.15"fades,8"riser will be tapered 2" which all make a 4" handle NO shelf shoot off the hand.need to learn to tiller with you alls help.slow an easy.

kinkfeather

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Re: need help
« Reply #21 on: July 07, 2010, 11:02:18 am »
cut out fades,glued riser on last night.now i am starting to work the belly down slow not in the middle.but from the edges to the center.can any one tell me what a pyramid bow looks like.i do appreciate you alls help.i will treat every one with respect an honor.i love working with wood.thanks again

Offline ken75

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Re: need help
« Reply #22 on: July 07, 2010, 02:38:33 pm »
kink pyramid bow will have a straight taper viewed from the back widest part (usually round 2inches) will be where your handle fades into the limb. from there it tapers to nock ends ,usually( 1/2 to 3/8th wide). on this style bow the taper in width of the limbs gives you your tiller , the belly of the bow will not taper but retain its thickness for the length of the bow. the difference in tiller viewed from a distance (using a tillering tree) this bow will bend in more of a circle than d bows they should look eliptical. hope this helps also added a pic

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« Last Edit: July 07, 2010, 02:42:04 pm by ken75 »

kinkfeather

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Re: need help
« Reply #23 on: July 07, 2010, 10:41:28 pm »
thanks alot ken.but i think i have a d bow by accident.i have a friend from years ago that i helped make longbows steve martin.he made d bows.the handle on this bow is d bow.the fades are from the handle to the nocks.there is a slight fade in the belly.the fades in the belly are 3/4"to 1/2".the back is 1 1/2" from handle to 1/2" to nock.i have another plank the next one will be pyramid.i like the looks of yours.i believe your bow has less hand shock than a d bow.put it on a tiller tree with long string it was to 33lbs @ 10".i need to slow down do you think.i am shooting for 45/50 lbs @ 27"my first thought the bow will blow up hope not.ken thanks for the pics.is scraping my next move.kink