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cutting trees

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Minuteman:
Most of my whitewood I've cut in the heat of the summer , pealed the bark and never had a back check. Now I cut some in early october once and it checked like crazy but only for about a 1/4" deep. Chased a ring on one and gave the other ones away!
  Do some testing and make up yer own mind, but a little sealer on the back of all of 'em til you know how they'll act when cut that time of year, will go a long way to ease yer bowyer's mind ;D.

tpoof:
I'd start hackin on one!  ;D    Like was said it will dry faster that way.
All the Ash and Elm I've cut had no checking on the back and I've only sealed the ends after debarking,, however better safe than sorry,,,
I think you did the right thing by doing it both ways...

Pat B:
I believe that this time of year trees are more vulnerably because the sap is rising and the wood is wetter(my opinion[and word ;D]) and the wood is probably less stable because of it. BUT, depending on where you live and what your climatic conditions are, the way wood cures will be different. Experimentation is necessary.  :-\ ??? and is way better than checked bow wood :'(         Pat

Auggie:
Whats a good sealant to use?

Pat B:
I use Bullseye spray shellac. If you are gonna do a lot of wood a quart of brush on shellac would be cheaper but has a shelf life. Even when I debark cured whitewood or chase a ring on osage, mulberry, locust, et al, I spray the back and ends. It takes 2 minutes, dries in 10 min or less and seals well. You can remove it with light scraping, sanding or wipe it well with alcohol. It will stick to anything and you could seal over it with almost everything.   Pat

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