Since I have very little bow building experience, I tried not to add my 2 cents worth. But, alas, I"ve given into temptation. haha
I've made 2 hickory stave bows and another has sinew drying, it's a little d-bow that was drawing 47 pounds before sinewing. I've made one red oak board bow that crystaled after about 20 shots. It was 43#. Of course realize that it was bending just a bit too much right out of the fades, thus causing the crystals. My opinion, if it had been hickory it would still be shooting.
Here' my observations based solely on my limited knowledge and experience.
Hickory is easier to work. The red oad board was a pain to reduce to bow dimensions because the sureform would catch a splitter and gauge the wood. A 4-in 1 rasp was not much better. I had to use a belt sander (scary stuff) to reduce it, then all scraper.
The red oak board just didn't have the "spring" that my similar weight hickory did. I know design styles might explain some of this, but it just seemed slow. Now, it did put an arrow where I looked.
I have hunted on several weekends with fog, rain, freezing rain and snow with my hickory bows. They "might" have been a wee bit soft by Sunday night. But, I bet they still had better cast than a dry red oak board bow would have had.
If I were going to be hunting for a week in humid/wet conditions with no way to dry a bow, hickory would probably not be my first choice, neither would red oak.
Will I ever attempt to build another red oak board bow, maybe, if for some reason I don't have hickory or osage or any number of other better bow wood available. Or, maybe just to prove to myself that I can build one.
Pluses for red oak boards, they're cheap and readily available. And, I could probably have one built in a weekend and that's allowing for the glue to dry on the handle. And, the make an "ok" bow.
Just my humble opinions