Author Topic: Rasps  (Read 7590 times)

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Grunt

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Re: Rasps
« Reply #15 on: June 08, 2010, 09:34:48 am »
I have the Farriers and the #49 and #50. Which one I use depends on the density of the wood I'm working with and where on the bow I'm working. I really like a sharp radius blade spokeshave.

DCM4

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Re: Rasps
« Reply #16 on: June 08, 2010, 10:16:25 am »
I could have written Hillbillys post.  Pattern maker rasps for shaping, ferriers rasp for floor tillering.  I like the smooth side of the ferriers rasp in particular for draw filing to smooth up the cut for a scraper/bowyers edge.

Offline Traxx

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Re: Rasps
« Reply #17 on: June 08, 2010, 01:15:33 pm »
Id like to Add,that all Farriers Rasps are not created equal.Use a good one,and youll never look back.Ive had people tell me my used ones are sharper and work better,than their brand new cheap ones.I tried a cheap one,for all of about 30 seconds,and gave it away.IMO oppinion,the best are called Save Edge,from Finland.They run about 25 to 30 bucks depending where you buy em.Stay away from anything from anything less than 20 bucks unless you find a great closeout sale.

Offline chuckp

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Re: Rasps
« Reply #18 on: June 08, 2010, 07:40:45 pm »
How about this one!
http:/ /www.amazon.com/Save-Edge-Inch-Beast-Rasp/dp/B000QUXVCS?SubscriptionId =1G78SKE6B9KVDSJ53X82&tag=atoooools3-20& linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B000QUXVCS
« Last Edit: June 09, 2010, 01:02:20 pm by Pappy »

Offline ricktrojanowski

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Re: Rasps
« Reply #19 on: June 08, 2010, 10:25:27 pm »
I use the Shinto up to the point of floor tiller than switch to the Nicholson.  The shinto takes wood off in a hurry.
Traverse City, MI

Offline Frode

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Re: Rasps
« Reply #20 on: June 08, 2010, 10:39:45 pm »
I've got a microplane (like a sureform, but with square straight teeth), a couple of half round rasps, a bastard file and a mill file.  If it's been a bad day at the office, and there's plenty of wood to remove before floor tillering, I use the microplane while making suitable Braveheart noises until it all gets better, then I settle in with the rasps, then work out the rough tool marks with the files, then finish up with the scrapers.  It's all very zen.   ;)
Frode
If it doesn't rap the lintel, it might not be a longbow.

Offline Timo

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Re: Rasps
« Reply #21 on: June 08, 2010, 11:45:21 pm »
I guess I am the black sheep here. I throw farriers rasp as far as my arm allows. ;) and never look twice at were they land. ;D

I prefer 49-50 and the ubr-10.

Just my humble opinion. O:)

Offline PaulN/KS

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Re: Rasps
« Reply #22 on: June 09, 2010, 12:15:11 am »
I find the farrier rasp too coarse for my liking...I've had them tear the edge of staves that I was working.
 Now, I won't throw it off and away like Tim but mine stays up on the garage work bench.

Offline The Gopher

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Re: Rasps
« Reply #23 on: June 10, 2010, 11:59:00 pm »
Hey Timo, i love my UBR10 but pretty much just use the coarse side. have you had problems with the fine side clogging up alot? I don't use excessive pressure and the wood is dry. I emailed Dean and just told me the wood was wet.  ???

do you use chalk or anything?
45# at 27"

Offline Timo

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Re: Rasps
« Reply #24 on: June 11, 2010, 12:30:29 am »
Gopher, I have never had one of them clog on me. osage,elm, hickory mostly. Moisture is a contrary thing,kinda like  Dean ....You always get an answer,even though it isn't always the one you thought you might. ;D

I just keep them clean,no chaulk, just clean it out after every use with one of those lil soldering brass bristle brushes.

Offline M-P

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Re: Rasps
« Reply #25 on: June 11, 2010, 04:08:47 am »
HI,   I find my rasps and shinto clogging with dust at sporadic intervals.   Oily wood like ipe seems to be the worst for me, but bamboo can be a pain too, when flattening the underside for use as a backing.  File cards are the tool designed just to clean such clogging.  I can't remember how much my file card cost, but it was darn cheap, has lasted for years and cleans the rasps with just 1 or 2 passes.   Ron
"A man should make his own arrows."   Omaha proverb   

"There are three kinds of men. The one that learns by reading. The few who learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence for themselves."    Will Rogers

Offline JW_Halverson

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Re: Rasps
« Reply #26 on: June 12, 2010, 12:57:58 am »
Can't have too many tools in my opinion, unless they have a power cord.  What I can do in two minutes with any of my rasps I can screw up in 2 seconds with a power tool. 

I have a Nicholson rasp that is flat on one side and half round on the other, but it is not one of the better 49's or 50's, no numbers on it, just Nicholson.  Also have an old Nicholson four way, got two more of the new ones made in Brazil and neither one will cut cotton candy.  Lotta guys love those sureforms, but I have bought two different types and have taken a hammer to both of 'em in frustration.  Felt mighty good at the time, ya know. 

Get a bunch of those old cheap foam rubber mouse pads that every company in the world used to give away, put them all over your bench and set your rasps on them, one rasp per mouse pad.  Make a habit of that and you will have them last a lot longer.  Every time a rasp hits another metal tool you lose the cutting edge of a tooth or two, it starts to add up.
Guns have triggers. Bicycles have wheels. Trees and bows have wooden limbs.

Offline Postman

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Re: Rasps
« Reply #27 on: June 12, 2010, 08:39:11 pm »
Good idear, JW
"Leave the gun....Take the cannoli"

John Poster -  Western VA

Offline HoBow

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Re: Rasps
« Reply #28 on: June 12, 2010, 09:17:14 pm »
Nice tip. Another good one is to put the business card magnets places hand out on the bottom of planes to protect the blades ;)
Jeff Utley- Atlanta GA

Offline okiecountryboy

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Re: Rasps
« Reply #29 on: June 13, 2010, 04:48:51 am »
has anyone had problems with surform handles coming off easily?

I'm just gonna glue it on with 5 min epoxy.

Any other sugestions?
Thanks

Ron
God, honor, country, bows, and guns.