Making My First Bow

[Dhanus]

Hey everyone

First off, I'd just like to say that these forums are awesome...I've been reading them in the last month while I was planning to make my own self bow. I live in a very blue, very urbanite part of maryland so there isn't much in the way of local resources.

To start with, I've decided to go with the red oak board bow. I'm using http://poorfolkbows.com/oak.htm and http://georgeandjoni.home.comcast.net/~georgeandjoni/boards.html to guide me. My biggest problem right now is that this is essentially the first woodworking project i'm doing on my own. The last time I worked with wood was in 7th grade for tech ed, and that was 10 years ago...

I'm roughing out the board into a bow right now. From george's guide, I found the center, marked off the handle, marked the knocks, and drew lines to the mid-limb point. I'm now sawing off the excess wood. I'm using a crosscut handsaw and its going pretty slow - is this the right tool? I also have a stanley surform rasp (the small pocket size one), but that doesn't take wood off fast enough to be useful until fine tillering

Also I don't understand one part of geroge's guide:
"Find mid limb on both limbs. Draw a line from the nock to the mid limb point on both sides of that limb. Repeat on the other limb. Slowly remove wood with a draw knife (what I use) or a saw. A nice sharp hand saw would do it or a band saw. Belt sanders work fine. Power tools are best left for later, however, for the beginning bowyer. Do this on all 4 limbs. You have cut out the outline of your bow. Orient the bow with the back on top. At the nock end of each limb measure down 3/8 in. Draw a line from there to the end of the handle on both limbs. Remove the wood "

I drew the lines from the nock to the mid lib point on each side of the limb and am now sawing off the wood. Why does the guide say "Do this on all 4 limbs."? Aren't there only 2 (the top and bottom limb) with 2 sides, left and right? Also, the last wood removal part, 3/8 in. down from the nock end to the handle, is a little vague. What exactly and I supposed to do there?

[Parnell]

Ummm, my brain is a little fried from teaching teenagers trigonometry all day, but, I think the interpretation is;

You should have a centerpoint from nock to middle of the handle to nock.  I'll use a string with a couple fishing weights on each end to line them up and make sure the bow is straight.

The bow's width will reduce at mid-limb, say 1.75 inches?, down to 3/8 at nocks.  In other words, at mid-limb, you'd have 7/8 inch to one side of center and 7/8 inch to the other, reducing it's width to 3/16 at one side of nock on left and right of center.

Let me recommend making your bow cuts a bit wider and working down.  When I make mine, I start my nocks at 1/2 inch at first then reduce width when the bow is almost complete and I'm down to final tillering.

Don't underestimate your Stanley Surform rasp.  It sounds like I have the same one.  I'll use it during floor tillering to get the limbs bending, but don't rush it.  You can't put the wood back on.  When I first started, I wasn't using the rasp properly, I was pushing it 'straight on' with the bow limb, not angling the tool to get the teeth orientated with the limb.  Stop using the surform rasp at floor tillering and switch to a scraper from then on.

"Do this on all 4 limbs", I think it does mean, do this on all four sides.


I started a year and half ago, and haven't stopped.  Wait until you lay in bed at night thinking about new bow possibilities, that's when it's time to admit you have a problem.  Don't worry, we're all here to sympathize!

Best of luck to you.

Parnell

[jthompson1995]

Welcome to the addiction. Where in MD are you? I'm in Parkville, just north of the Baltimore Beltway. Maybe we can get together and work through some of your questions. I've only completed 1 bow so far but have a bunch in the works that I'll hopefully finish up soon.

[okiecountryboy]

Dhanus
Welcome a"board"
I am one that truly understands the frustrations.
I will be  starting soon on my fourth bow. The first three were board bows...I rushed...And they all eventually blew-up on me
It is an addiction, and welcome to it!!! If you fail, look at what you did and LEARN.
Don't ever forget, the people here at PA are the best. They are very patient, and know there are NO silly or unwanted questions. It's all about keeping the tradition alive.

If you get stuck on a problem,,,stop, and ask...
You will get responses from the most knowledgeable anywhere.

Ron

[Dhanus]

Thanks for all the help guys, I'm almost done roughing this bow out, hopefully it doesnt break during tillering or when being shot in...

jthompson1995, I'm in gaithersburg

Also, is it advisable to skip floor tillering and go straight to long string tillering or should I always floor tiller first?

[Frode]

Welcome!, and what these guys said!  I'd definitely floor tiller first.  And take your time.  Rasping out that first one feels like it's going to kill you, but once you get your Popeye on you'll be surprised how fast you can remove material!  I personally find the hand rasping and filing are a good way to put a bad day behind you.  You may not be machine fast, but you do feel better as you get into it.  It's a good addiction!
Frode

[Dane]

D, I'm sure what Jawge meant is drawing the outline of the bow on each side of the board, which makes four lines. There can't be four bow arms, after all.

As for me, I only draw the outline of a bow on one side of a stave or board. I suggest you cut at an angle so that you have extra wood, ie be careful not to saw down at a angle so you are inside the outline, if that makes sense. And yes, using a hand saw is slow going, but this is not a craft you want to rush. Just take your time, relax, and have fun. Patience really is the single most important tool you have as bowyer.

I can not imagine not floor tillering the bow before cutting in nocks and long string tillering. Floor tiller carefully, and try to get an even bend on each limb, and that will make the rest of the tillering process more fun and more successful.

Finally, don't fall in love with any given piece of wood. I've messed up my share of saplings, staves, and boards. Dont get too bummed if you break a bow at any stage. Just take that as a lesson for your next bow.

Dane

[okiecountryboy]

D, I'm sure what Jawge meant is drawing the outline of the bow on each side of the board, which makes four lines. There can't be four bow arms, after all.

As for me, I only draw the outline of a bow on one side of a stave or board. I suggest you cut at an angle so that you have extra wood, ie be careful not to saw down at a angle so you are inside the outline, if that makes sense. And yes, using a hand saw is slow going, but this is not a craft you want to rush. Just take your time, relax, and have fun. Patience really is the single most important tool you have as bowyer.

I can not imagine not floor tillering the bow before cutting in nocks and long string tillering. Floor tiller carefully, and try to get an even bend on each limb, and that will make the rest of the tillering process more fun and more successful.

Finally, don't fall in love with any given piece of wood. I've messed up my share of saplings, staves, and boards. Dont get too bummed if you break a bow at any stage. Just take that as a lesson for your next bow.

Dane
AMEN

[Dhanus]

OK so I just started tillering my bow

As you can see, my tillering tree is a little slanted because the base is weird :-/

I'm currently drawing the long string down to 26'' @ 20#

I'm pretty sure that the limb which is right on top of the bathroom weight scale is a little stiffer than the other one...i've been rasping away at it for some time now with no noticeable difference, so I may just be seeing things...

Also, the long string isn't an accurate measure of draw length...when do I move on to tillering with the bow braced so I can get to my real desired draw length and weight? Also, how the heck do I go about bracing this thing? Everyone says "use a bow stringer" but I'm pretty sure the Native Americans didn't use bow stringers and I also won't be able to find one anywhere near me. All help is appreciated, I move back to school on tuesday so I'm trying to get this done ASAP so I can shoot around a little =)

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[sailordad]

well it dont look like its doing alot of bending at the moment
i would forget the long string for now,just get it to floor tiller
floor tiller= rasp enpough wood away on each limb where you can make it bend by pressing it against the floor

once floor tiller is achieved and the limbs are bending about 3-4 inches,then put it on the long string
long string= a string that is the same length as the bow

you dont need anymore string than the bow is long

also give us some more info on the stick too
how wide at fades,at tips,where does the taper begin,kind of wood etc

as far as bracing goes,once your just past floor tiller and its on the long string.the limbs will start to bend more and more with each scraping session
once you get the limbs bending about 6-8 inches then it should be able to put on the short string
il ike to use the push/pull method,or as some call it the kick method

good luck and keep posting pics

[bigcountry]

Hey, I am westminster MD, I am in constant bowbuilding mode.  Not the greatest bowyer, but have a few somewhat successuful ones under my belt.

PM me if you need help.  Lots of these guys are much more experienced, but I can offer what I know.

[Dhanus]

@bigcountry thanks man, I might take you up on that...I'm a student at UMD so when I move back on monday my bowyer'ing will be put on hold for 2 months

@sailordad I actually floor tillered it before the long string. I'm using a 1x2x6 red oak board, .5 inches at the tips with a taper on both limbs of 15 inches from the tip (i measure 15 inches from the tip, drew a line, then drew a line from .25 inches off the center of the tip, on both sides, to this point to obtain the taper).

Can you explain the push/pull or kick method?

[okiecountryboy]

Before Sailordad answers....You need to dirty that garage up a little with some shavings....Check out PatB's , youwill know what I mean. nothin bad ment Pat....It's a sign of craftmenship !!!
LOL
Just Keep Askin and Learnin..............
Ron
If I clean up my garage and back patio, I would not find a darn thing

[aznboi3644]

Good start on the general taper but you still have much floor tillering to do.

I will slowly come...patience

[sailordad]

well i will try and explain it
my explanation would be for a right handed person though,so ifn your a lefty just reverse the hand/foot positions

i take my bow in my left hand by the handle,belly facing to the right back to the left.
i place the lower limb nock inside my left foot arch,place my right hand on the back of the bow with the fingers between the belly and the string
then i start to pull with my left hand(on the handle) and push with my right hand on the upper limb as i start to slide my right hand and string to the tip.
this helps keep even pressure on both limbs when stringing

only down side is its scary (atleast for me)when stringing a new bow the first time,and it is a little tricky to figure out at first,but once you do you will
wonder how and why you ever strung a bow any other way.
if i get time today i will try and get picks of how i do it and post them for you,but its realy realy nice out and my bike has been begging to be ridden since before turkey season so no promises