Author Topic: how do you build an ash longbow? (Read 6764 times)

ilcoalminer · « **on:** May 13, 2010, 03:33:49 pm »

the title says it all. do you leave sap wood on like you would yew? i'm going for a 6 foot D bind through the handle bow and i've never built a longbow yet. so if you could give me some advice or point me to a thread that has already went over this i'd appreciate it very much

youngbowyer33 · « **Reply #1 on:** May 13, 2010, 06:16:55 pm »

well i think it is best to just leave the outside of the tree under the bark as the back, instead of chasing a ring.

acker · « **Reply #2 on:** May 13, 2010, 06:27:22 pm »

make a picture of the stave and of the rings.
We have to see the rings clearly to be able to help you

acker

alanesq · « **Reply #3 on:** May 13, 2010, 06:33:47 pm »

If you check out the "back street bowyer" section on my web site, this should be a good starting point for you
alanesq.com/longbow.htm

acker · « **Reply #4 on:** May 13, 2010, 06:43:06 pm »

@alanesq : Your side is great

I was on it a couole of times as I started to build longbows and it was a great help ! I have to say thank you for that

acker

alanesq · « **Reply #5 on:** May 14, 2010, 02:59:36 am »

Quote from: acker on May 13, 2010, 06:43:06 pm

@alanesq : Your side is great I was on it a couole of times as I started to build longbows and it was a great help ! I have to say thank you for that

Glad to hear it was a help

nidrinr · « **Reply #6 on:** May 14, 2010, 04:04:02 am »

If you're making an ash longbow, with a D-cross section and a bend-through-the-handle design (like the MR bows), I strongly recommend you heat treat the belly of the bow. (Unless you have a piece of ash with SG 0.9 or higher). Unless you have a piece of wood with this good SG, ash bows of this design and draw weights in the warbow category have a bad habit of following the string.

Also remember to make sure you have a water proof finish on ash bows. Add it while the MC is as low as 7-8% to get the best result from ash. (Ash is really good at soaking up water

)

-But made the right way, ash can take heavy poundage, good performing bows.

Look forward to see the result!

backgardenbowyer · « **Reply #7 on:** May 20, 2010, 07:40:56 pm »

My ash elb is a bend through the handle style and though it is only about 60lbs @ 29" I heat treated the belly and went for an almost rectangular cross section (with rounded corners). Ash can chrysal and IMHO a flatter belly helps protect against this. Some of the Mary Rose bows were close to rectangular in cross section so it is quite authentic for a warbow. Ash was certainly used in the middle ages but we have no way of knowing how heavy those bows were as none survived, what we do know is that it was thought to be a "mean" wood not comparable to yew.

Despite a lot of string follow (also a problem with ash) my rather twisty ash bow which cost me nothing at all has out performed some professionally made bows in a flight shoot. I think ash is good stuff if you get the right piece and accept its limitations.

Primitive Archer