Best design for black walnut?

[KShip85]

I just cut some black walnut and was wondering what designs work well with the wood.  I'm wanting to make a bow for my cousin who is interested in getting into archery.  I'm thinking maybe 35 # at maybe 26 inches, need to check her draw length though.  Anyway I was hoping on trying a flat bellied D-bow, maybe 62 inches, something close to a Cherokee style maybe.  I'd like to thin the sapwood to get some heartwood in it for athstetics.  What do y'all think?  Will it work?

Kip

[Pat B]

Your best bet(IMO) is to go with the ring right under the bark and an Eastern Woodland style D bow would be a good design to build being that the bow and the wood are indigenous to the Eastern woodlands.
If you can split a piggyback stave off you will probably be able to incorporate the heartwood into the bow.
   Paul Comstock's "The Bent Stick" has good info about using"whitewoods" for bows and I (and Mr. Comstock) consider black walnut, cherry, the oaks, elm, etc all whitewoods.

[KShip85]

Thanks for the reply Pat.  Do you think that it would respond well to heat treating?  I've read it tends to fret and wondered if a little tempering would help out the problem.  Thanks for the help.  The good news is I have plenty to experiment with.

Kip

[half eye]

KShip,
      I've built a lot of Black Wanut bows and have not had any problems with the various designs. D bows, rigid grip types, wide and thin or narrow and deeper. But I do make my bows from split boards and vertical rings....so don't know how it would apply to your stave. Also it steam bends very well, and makes terrific backed bows when used as the belly wood. I dont heat the bellies on any of my bows so can't say about that part.
Rich

[KShip85]

Rich, thanks for the help.  I look forward to trying out many different styles with it.  I'd love to see some pics if you have them.  Have you done anything in an ELB style?  Also what do you like to back it with?  Thanks again for the help, I look forward to getting into these staves!

Kip

[half eye]

Kip, Never had the urge to get into the ELB thing, as far as backers go I know that Ken uses hickory, and I have used maple, ash, birch, white oak, and red and grey elm.
     If you want a combination that is almost bullet-proof I would strongly recommend the hickory or elm. The rest are almost as good....and none are "bad" choices.
     If you decide on a self bow remember that walnut will need to be slightly thicker than say, hickory, maple, ash or the like. For example, if you have made a hickory bow of a certain weight and it was 3/8 to 1/2 inch thick I would make the walnut 3/4" and work it down a little to maybe 9/16 or so to make the same weight.
     Would love to send you some pics, do you want them on here or sent to your regular email address?
Rich

[KShip85]

Thanks Rich, either one would be fine, just whatever is easiest for you.  I think for my first one I might copy the dimensions of a Cherokee d bow in TBB 2 and see how it works out.  I think that one was said to be 50 lbs at 28 and was Osage so I figure it might yield a good starter bow for my kid cousin if I try it with the walnut.  Thanks again for the help.

Kip

[half eye]

Kip,
     Here's some of the different bow designs....there are others that were given away and I'm still looking for those. The set of 3 is a current Seneca 48" that will be tillered to 26", right now it's roughed and the tips have been steamed, next is the scallops, steam in the deflex and tiller out.
Rich

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