That bow is sweet! I can't believe I missed this thread! For your first r/d bow your tiller looks great! On these bows I go a lot by feel as well as how the tiller "looks".. A small bench sander with a 40 grit belt is my favorite too to get the limbs bending on these bows, and then I use a scraper and/ or a little sandpaper on the last bit of tillering..
What makes these bows "special" is how well they keep their profile, and speed..Rick Tatum shot my 5 year old 60#r/d ipe boo through the chrono recently with a 630 gr. arrow at 195fps. your bow is shooting fast, and may even go faster as the wood cures more and if the humidity drops.
It's good to see more midwest bowyers using this wood since more than a few regional "well known" bowyers were trashing the woods performance capabilities since they don't sell the wood, don't like anything competing with their fabled "osage". Heck I like osage, but I also like unbiased objectivity
.. Having wrote the original article about Ipe in PA, I naturally have heard a bit more of this kind of talk...
Ipe burnished is quite waterproof on its own, but often on hunting bows all it use is mineral oil rubbed in..Bamboo skin is pretty water tight too, so just the sides of the boo are succeptable for moisture..sometimes over this I like glossy waterbased polyurethane applied with a sponge brush with a light sanding between coats..Take the pretty picture, then rub it with steel wool a touch and use a good wax..then you can take the bow swimming with you..
Again congratulations on a great job, and if you ever make more of these bows, you might like using black bamboo..very camoflauged.
Rich Vol 7 issue 2 "lumberyard Gem"