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[woodsman1031]

Is it OK to discuss board bows on this site?

[sailordad]

sure,boards bows are nothing more than a piece of wood just like a stave bow
so they are still self bows

[woodsman1031]

OK great, I am usually down in anything else and I didnt remember.

  I just got a really good end grain oak board and a new bottle of TB3. I found a tutorial by Sam Harper using a 1 1/2" x 3/4" 72" board. I just remembered that the new string that I have is 60 1/2" long from the loop side closed to the string. I really need to use this string because I would like to work on this bow this weekend. Would someone give me some rough out dimensions for a board bow for my string length? I am also unsure what my NTN length would be for this string.

 If yall are not familiar with Sam Harper I can post a link, if it is not against the rules.

Tommy

[Orkraider]

Sam Harper's site is what gave me the bow building bug! I must have 5 copies of those 10 or 12 pages from his site scattered around my apartment.

Now, as far as strings are concerned, I have a suggestion. I would suggest you get your hands on a spool of dacron b-50. I managed to score a 1/4 pound spool for 6 bucks, and it looks like it will make bow strings for the rest of my life and have some left over. I priced bowstrings, and this spool was cheaper than any prices I found online.

One reason I suggest this is, you want a longer string to start tillering with. You'd then use your shorter normal length string when you get to the point where you're ready to string it at "full brace".

Now that I've said all that, let me put a tape measure on my string:  60 and 3/4 ", or 60.75 inches.

I also started with the same size red oak board, 1" by 2" by 72" dimensional, which means actual measurements of 3/4" by 1 1/2" by 72".  I cut my notches in 1 inch from the end.  My brace is 6 and 1/2 inches, measuring from the belly of my handle to the string.

I don't remember if my string stretched at all.. but I think it's very likely that your string would work just find.

I would suggest that you start tillering with a longer piece of cord of some kind, maybe some strong rope you might have sitting around?

The very last thing I would suggest, is that you do a google search for "how to build an american flat bow", you should come across some vintage looking plans that are almost identical to Sam Harpers'. They did have some other info in there that helped with the build process a LOT.

One thing Sam suggests is using that drywall tape, 3 layers of it. That stuff is fiberglass. It works, but on my second bow, I did linen instead. That ended up looking a lot better, and was 1 tiny touch closer to "primitive'.

Hope this helps.

Riley, Saint Paul, MN

[woodsman1031]

I used this same string on a 68" NTN bow I made and it gave me about a 12" brace height.

[Pat B]

Don't build a bow to your string. Build a new string for your bow.   If you don't have another string to work with or the means to make one I will make you one and send it to you. In the mean time use a piece of parachute cord or clothesline to make a tiller string.
  A 64" bow should work with your 60 1/2" string.

[woodsman1031]

Don't build a bow to your string. Build a new string for your bow.   If you don't have another string to work with or the means to make one I will make you one and send it to you. In the mean time use a piece of parachute cord or clothesline to make a tiller string.
  A 64" bow should work with your 60 1/2" string.

  OK that is what I was thinking that this string was too short for a bow that long. I appreciate you offering the string to me as well. I was kind of hoping to modify the design on that website to match my string, but I will take you up on that offer.

Thanks Alot!!


Tommy

[Pat B]

Send me a PM with your mailing address.  The strings I make have a loop on one end and a bowyers knot on the other and are 2 bundle strings. I have brown, white, yellow and green string material.

[Frode]

One thing Sam suggests is using that drywall tape, 3 layers of it. That stuff is fiberglass. It works, but on my second bow, I did linen instead. That ended up looking a lot better, and was 1 tiny touch closer to "primitive'.

I'd second the linen part.  I've used it on all my bows so far, with Titebond II and III, and it is very easy to work with, and really not very expensive.  A quarter yard only costs $5-6, and with careful cutting may even give you enough for a second bow.  And it paints up nice, if that's the way you want to go at finishing time.
Frode

[Canoe]

Howdy Woodsman, PatB and others,

Yes, what PatB said.  

You'll want a string that is about 3-1/2" shorter than your bow.  However, 64" is a pretty short bow especially for a stiff handled bow.  So, consider going with a bendy handled, D- bow.  (A bendy handled bow is supposed to be easier to build that one with a stiff handle.)

Search around, and I'm sure you'll find a tutorial for this type of bow.

(And PatB, I hope you don't mind if I PM you also.)

All the Best,
Canoe

[Pat B]

Please do, Canoe.

[Justin Snyder]

Woodsman, I wouldn't hesitate to make a bow at 64" as long as you don't have a really long draw, over 28".  Remember, that is the length from nock to nock, not tip to tip. Rough your bow out to 66" then when you are ready to cut the nocks, you will cut them in 1" from the tips.  I would use linen or silk for the backing. Just apply it with your TB3 and you will be in great shape. Justin

[Justin Snyder]

One other thing, go to George's page, he has lots of info on board bows and silk backings. Sams buildalong is fine, but you will find additional information on George's site that you wont on Sam's.  http://georgeandjoni.home.comcast.net/~georgeandjoni/archer.html

[woodsman1031]

  Well I have it 70% roughed out. I used my table top delta bandsaw to help alot. I got inside my line about a 1/16th of an inch on the sides of one of the fades but I kind of just eyeballed it back in line. I hope I can still make it work. Either way I have learned a TON in the last couple of hours.
   I used my rasp for smoothing out my cuts. I am not completly done with that, I had to take a break.The first thing I learned is watch for spinters I noticed that in this tutorial he mentions marking a 1/4" all the way around the outside of the back and rounding over the fades to this point. I think if I am careful I should be able to use my 1x30 verticle bandsaw for this, kind like I round out knife scales. Anyone else use a bandsaw for that?


Tommy

[Justin Snyder]

Don't do it!!!!!!
Way to much wood has been ruined by getting in a hurry with power tools. It is faster in the long run to just use hand tools and get it right the first time. Roughing it out with power tools is one thing, but don't get carried away.