Nock thoughts - Boo

[riarcher]

Getting ready to nock some boo shafts and I started thinking (again). 

Some seem to put the nock just above the node, some don't.
While looking at my shafts I couldn't help but notice not all nodes are in-line, Some have a bit of a jog to them. Without sanding or filing the nodes straight, wouldn't the jog be the same as raising / lowering your nock point on the string?

Seems just cutting the node off to get a symetrical(?) push on the shaft would be the way to go.

Just thinking is all and thought I'd run it by you folks for thoughts on this. Lately, my thinking don't seem so good. 

Thanks.

[DanaM]

I don't worry if the nock is at a node,just wrap under your nock with sinew or thread.

[riarcher]

I'd wrap anyways. Just wondering about thoughts on where to put it. 

[Pat B]

With a good sinew wrap it doesn't matter where on the shaft the nock goes...although it must go on the rear end of the arrow!    Just above, through and just below the node is probably the most compression strong (base to tip)area due to the fact it is solid, so placing the nock where a lot of compression energy is imparted makes good since. However, just like with the evolution of wood bows over the last 20 years, we are finding out things that contradict what conventional wisdom taught. With more and more folks getting involved with natural archery and the fact that we all have to tinker with it all     it's no doubt there are so many ways of doing things and not necessarily just the conventional wisdom way.
  A simple self nock can be made on cane at a node without a wrap. I wouldn't try that anywhere else on a cane shaft. If the center hole is smoothed out and the proper size insert is glued in, a wrap is probably not necessary no matter where you put the nock. Basically you have made a reinforced self nock.

[artcher1]

"Without sanding or filing the nodes straight, wouldn't the jog be the same as raising / lowering your nock point on the string?"

Thanks correct riarcher, and you certainly don't want that. I try to keep all my nocks consistant with all my arrows, about 1/4" or so in diameter so that they match up with my 5/16" plastic nocks on my target arrows. ART

[aero86]

as some of the wrappings on my arrows have come loose under the nocks they have yet to split, and that are all no where near a node.  this is using 40lb and 45lb bows.  heavier bows maybe.  the next set of 6 i make, im going to put wood inserts in and not wrap the nocks. 

[riarcher]

Artcher1 - 
Wasn't even thinking of same diameter! Glad you brought it up.
Seems the combined offset / diameter may drive one nuts trying to get a decent tune. 
I'll keep it in mind. Thanks.

Pat -
I'm a "tinkerer" from way back.  Only we call it "Puttering around".
Some consider it signs of a bored / deranged mind though. 

Aero-
Almost to the point where I've got to take the dogs to the woods to gather pine crystals. 

Thanks for the replies guys. Appreciated muchly.

[FlintWalker]

I cut my nocks wherever my spine tester tells me too, and have shot them for a while now without wrapping them and have had no problems at all.  If it's fairly thick walled boo, and you have a good flat to slightly rounded bottom in the groove...it'll hold.  Wrapping helps out alot when you hit it with another arrow though.

[Pdwight]

total newbie has a question, how does the spine tester tell you where to cut the nock ??

Thanks
Dwight

[stringstretcher]

Dwight.  When you are spineing and arrow, you can slide it back and forth to get the spine you want.  On Cane, moving from the smaller end to the larger end will increase spine.  so you can cut your shaft at the spine you need.

[Pdwight]

Thanks.....I think 

I understand how a microprocessor works, I grasp string theory (barley) and this is still black science to me.

Dwight

[aero86]

but, this isnt rocket science, just arrow science!  bamboo has a stiff side, while you dont need a spine tester to find it, it helps a lot.  you want the stiff side of the bamboo against the bow, so you have to orient the nock parallel with the stiff side..

[FlintWalker]

Stringstretcher is right Dwight.  I usually start with boo shafts around 3' long and can move the shaft back or forth in my spine tester to vary the spine by a few lbs.  Once I find the "sweet spot" I cut them off to the length I need.

[Pdwight]

Do you need a spine tester ?? how do you find the Sweet Spot 

[FlintWalker]

OK...The span between the posts on my spine tester are 26" apart.  If my straightened shaft is say...38" and I want a 28" finished arrow shaft, that gives me 10" to play with.  Boo shafts have a fat end and a slim end.  The spine of the shaft will be higher closer to the fat end, less near the thin end.   If I slap that shaft on my tester and it spines out at 55# out near the thick end and I want a 50# spined arrow.  I can slide the shaft out to where I'm using more of the thinner end and the spine will be less.   By moving the shaft back and forth on the tester, you can fine tune the spine of the shaft...