Author Topic: Which bow design to make??????? (Read 9124 times)

southern shooter · « **on:** February 24, 2010, 09:11:34 am »

Hello...

I have a red oak board. Actual dimensions are 3/4" X 2 1/2" X 6'. It is rift sawn with the grain directions looking rather straight on the back. The sides look pretty good, too. I plan to back it with a burlap in a bed of Titebond III.

What bow(s) design would you more experienced bowyers recommend to a novice?

Thanks

Parnell · « **Reply #1 on:** February 24, 2010, 09:37:02 am »

I'd go with a flatbow - 4 inch handle design that you will see used very frequently on this board. Search around and you will see. What is your draw?
I'd go with a longer bow by a couple of inches or so than what you think you will need. You can always pike or shorten the nocks later to bring up draw weight. Get the limbs working slightly out of the handle fades first. Then work your way down the limb to the most bend mid limb and stiffening back up to no bend towards the last 6 inches or so to the nocks. Take your time, when your tiller is getting close you only want to scrape a little then re-string and exercise the limbs about 30 times to work in the change. Never pull past your intended draw weight until you reach it at full draw. If the wood is bending too much in one spot the wood will fret. This happened with my first red oak flatbow. The Traditional Bowyers Bible Vol.1 discusses tillering thoroughly and is an excellent read. I still refer to mine all the time. Do you have a pulley tillering system made yet? Post photos as you go and get feedback and you'll come out on top. Patience is a virtue!

Good luck!

half eye · « **Reply #2 on:** February 24, 2010, 09:39:20 am »

Hey SS
   With the width and length you have you could about make anything you wanted, and ya didn't really say what your interests are....(hunting, target, 3-D etc.)
   The 3/4" thickness will probably require a small grip riser as I make most of my bows grip 1-1/8" (min.) deep...unless you make a "D" bow that bends through the handle. You have plenty of width for a paddle-bow, more than you need for a nice pyramid style, or maybe 2 bows if you went with a long-thin type bow profiles.
   Any of those shapes make good bows....so I guess it would (or should) be what you like, that way ya kinda get the fire in your belly for the project...if it's what you want or like. Any style should work with backed red oak. Just one guys opinion for whatever it might be worth............oh ya you know I like them Mollegabets, eh

half eye

southern shooter · « **Reply #3 on:** February 24, 2010, 10:05:35 am »

Hey folks...thanks for the input so far...got me thinking.

I did forget to mention the purpose for this bow. I would like to hunt with it. I am not a tall person...5' 6" at best. And, I live in the South were the woods can be thick and the weather wet.

half eye · « **Reply #4 on:** February 24, 2010, 10:23:25 am »

SS,
You may wish to consider one of the NA styles (paddle or Pyramid) but dont go real short (stack etc.) and for hunting you may want a rigid handle especially if you shoot off a rest. Sounds just like hunting here in Michigan....deep, thick and wet.
This old man shoots 50-52# or so at 27" for my deer bows and that should not be too difficult with a bow in the 60-62" range. Like the other fellas said, get a good design, go slow and easy ....next thing ya know there's meat on the table

half eye

George Tsoukalas · « **Reply #5 on:** February 24, 2010, 10:56:08 am »

Well, I make bend in the handle board bows. No glued on handles. They are trouble especially for the beginner. 1 3/8 in wide out to mid limb narrowing to 1/2 inch nocks will get you 45-50#. 1.5 in will get you 50-55#. There's a board bow buildalong on my site. Jawge
http://georgeandjoni.home.comcast.net/~georgeandjoni/

southern shooter · « **Reply #6 on:** February 24, 2010, 01:13:37 pm »

I was under the impression that 2 1/2" red oak board would not be wide enough to build a pyramid bow of about 60" and still be close to 50 lbs. draw weight.

If that is not true, what would be the deminsions? How many pounds could I actually get?

Aries · « **Reply #7 on:** February 24, 2010, 05:29:49 pm »

i have been experimenting with trying to find the most effective design for a 50-55lb bow out of a red oak board. my latest and fastest was 55lbs at 28". 1/3/4 wide out side of the 4" handle with and 1/1/4 and 1/4 at tips. at 67"long. The speed all comes in taking your time tillering. this board was less than quality and the growth rinds traveled across at about a 75degree angle. I was able to finish the bow without having to back it. I just tried to avoid having a growth ring v out on one of the corners on the back of the bow in the working area of the limb... so if your rings are almost 90 degree then you probably wont need a backing other than for extra security. Ty

Josh · « **Reply #8 on:** February 24, 2010, 05:49:14 pm »

I used almost those same dimensions on my red oak bow I made for my sinew supplier. I left the tips a little wider than yours for longevity of the bow since the guy is a wooden bow newbie. It pulls 60# at 29" and it is very fast. It is also 1.75 inches wide at the fades like yours. I think these are the best dimensions for red oak in my opinion...

Grunt · « **Reply #9 on:** February 24, 2010, 07:58:34 pm »

I'd suggest that you work your way into bows under 66" I have made a pile of red oak board bows all between 64" and 70" .If you rip your board to 1 3/4 you will have a scrap piece wide enough to make a child's bow. For your bow I would have limbs of equal length, a 4" long by 1 1/4 " wide handle, 2" to 2 1/2" fades, 1 3/4 wide out to 2" above the fades and then straight tapering to 1/2" tips. 68" is long enough to absorb the stresses and if you come in under weight and it is long enough to pike to get your weight back. Go slow, have fun. Look at Jawge's website.

Aries · « **Reply #10 on:** February 24, 2010, 08:33:43 pm »

I agree if your goin over 50 lbs i def recomend 1/3/4+ width at the fades. Ty

VenomBOWslinger · « **Reply #11 on:** February 25, 2010, 01:21:25 am »

Listen to Mr. Jawge simple baord bow for the first timer. Take it easy as Red Oak if not paying attention u can dig into it and ruin with one swipe of the draw knife!!! Good luck and keep us posted!

Russ

southern shooter · « **Reply #12 on:** February 25, 2010, 09:03:53 am »

Half Eye, what is a paddle-bow?

southern shooter · « **Reply #13 on:** February 25, 2010, 10:03:24 am »

Hey Folks. What would be the results if you the red oak demensions were this: Flat-bow. 62" long NTN. 2.5" at the fads out to mid-limb. Then narrow down to the nocks of say about .5"? Would that be a terrible idea? What kind of draw weight could you get? Speed? Effeciency? Durability?

Thanks....

half eye · « **Reply #14 on:** February 25, 2010, 11:01:21 am »

SS,
here are some paddle bow pics, and the other question....draw weight on those dimensions would/could be HEAVY.
half eye

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