Bushman,
I'm still here, my email is
rousseau.rd@att.net it's on my bio (not hidden). In the artical I was splitting out the "board" but it could just easy be sawed out in which case you have "fully quartersawn" boards (that is growth rings 80 to 90 degrees ot the back and belly)
I have made bows in this manner including: Black Walnut, White Oak, Red Oak, White Ash, Black Ash, Red Elm (slippery), Grey Elm, Hard Maple, and some others and have no problems because of species of wood. Ther only difference's is that the Oaks, and Maple's make a slightly heavier bow for the draw weight and Elm's make the lightest bow for the draw weight. The bow I just posted "Jay Sam" is made from Black Ash and weighs 7 ounces even, pulling 45# at 26" (Jays personal prefferences) and the war arrows (hardwood) weigh 3/4 ounce and the bow launches them with very good authortiy.
I think (only a guess) that with growth rings oriented "back to belly" what your in effect doing is trying to bend an I beam on it's strongest axis....the bows come out with little mass, high out-put and seem to very stable....they are also very quiet (at least up to 75# (that is as heavy as I have made one)
I usually cut the "stick" out by orienting a 2" X 6' piece of steel on the board to get the grain running dead center down the bow limbs (not necessary for the bow, but the grain looks real nice like that) The only thing to be carefull of is this....by being fully quarter sawn if the wood relieves stress it will be side ways as apposed to reflex/ deflex profiles....but there is a plus to that as well in that you can actually plan for that and have the bow stick come out with a "center-shot" string line (not exactly but real close.
sorry you couldn't get ahold of me....been working with a bunch of fella's from this site and would be glad to help with any questions you may have....you now have my email if you send a message I will give you my TX # as well.....glad to help if I can.
half eye