Scp, just for the ehck of it lets have a very non tecnical discussion about wood and bending wood.
Lets say you want to bend a piece of wood 6" and you don't care how much effort it takes, the width is fine like it is. You want that same piece of wood to be able to treturn to it's original shape when you release it. Some guys would start thinning the piece of wood and pushing on it till the wood bent 6". Some guys would push a little bit and see if it returned ok and then push a bit more and check back again, if it didn't quite return they would take a bit more thickess off, repeating this till they hit the 6" point. The other guy might make it way thinner than he needed and get his 6" with no problem the wood returning perfectly to it's old position, or it might just break when he was pushing. In other words he was just guessing. For the most part the inside circumference of a bend has to stay with in about .7% of the otside circumference, some woods may go as high as 1%.
When we make a bow we have very specific goals, we know how far we want to bend it and we know how much effort we want to expend doing this, we also should know how we want it to look when bent. The goal when making a bow is not to avoid breaking it as much as it is to stay within the elastic limits and not take too much set. I have seen great looking bows with lots of reflex and great profiles that shot like dogs because the wood was so rubberized from being overstressed.
Most of the demensions given out on line are pretty close and work pretty good because there are lots of guys experiemnting here making bows and they know what works, but if you want to start finessing your game a bit you try to eliminate as much guess work as possible. Every little change you make in a design changes the optimum mass needed for that design.
One of the other goals when making a bow is to even out the stresses on the limb as much as possible. The only way to do this is to make the bend match the thickness. Lets say you have a 28" long limb, 16" of that limb is straight and the last 12" tapered to 1/2". You are going to scrape that limb down in thickness until it bends the same thrughout the limb most likley. It will look nice but far from being evenly stressed because you have made the limb thinner down its length, in order to make it evenly stressed it has to bend more as it progresses toward the tapered area. If you wanted a nice circular tiller the pyramid style even thickness design is what should have been chosen.
Everything you do to a limb that shortens the working area causes the working area to be under more stress, making it wider and thinner is the only way to compensate. A childs bow of only 10# draw weight is under no more or less stress than the curviest 80# bow you have ever seen, wood will only take so much stress and it is relative. The mass principle just keeps these things in mind when recomending how much wood you need to make a bow. Steve