Pinning riser/handle

[Frode]

Hi all,
Recently someone was looking at one of my board bows with handles, and commented that I might consider pinning the handle in addition to glue.  We didn't really get a chance to talk, so I couldn't get any specifics.  My handles glue joints are about 1 1/2" x 10", roughed a bit then glued with Titebond II and clamped overnight.
Anyone done something like that, and if so, any tricks?  Is it just a couple of blind holes in each part, dowels and glue?
Thanks,
Frode

[Hillbilly]

I wouldn't pin them, pinning tends to weaken handles from the couple times I've tried it and had them go kaboom. The TB is usually stronger than the original wood if the surfaces are prepared properly before glue-up. The only thing you have to worry about is if the bow bends into the handle, then you'll have trouble keeping a glued -on riser in place. Wrapping it tightly would be stronger than pinning it.

[Josh]

I dowelled a handle riser on a Hickory backed Hickory bow I did recently because the handle kept creaking.  I was afraid it would pop off so I dowelled it. I put three quarter inch dowels in the handle and one in each fade for a grand total of 5 dowels.  So far it is holding I have only put 500 or 600 arrows through the bow and so far it is holding just fine.  I also wrapped linen thread set in super glue really, really tightly underneath the handle leather.  It probably wasnt necessary along with the dowels, but I feel much better about it since i did that too.  I will post a link to the process and the finished bow.  Good luck!  -josh   

http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,15634.msg215843.html#msg215843

...and the finished bow too!   

http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,16059.0.html

[half eye]

Frode,
      My experience is the same as hillbilly. I've glued handle risers to some bows and as long as the glue joint is above the thickness of the limb fades you should have no problems. If the joint is even with the limb thickness it will "pop" off every time, at least that's how it worked for me.
half eye

[Frode]

Thanks all,
I checked, and so far, all my fades start in the bow, even if just a bit.  It sounds like pinning is a tack I can take if I need to, but not necessarily every time I put on a handle.  On a bow by bow basis.
Plus I learned to check for string noise.  Bonus!
Thanks again,
Frode

[Kegan]

I recently used small brads for a couple handles. Ugly things. Didn't really help anything besides holding them in place while the bow worked the handle off more slowly. Either it's going to come off or it won't, pins haven't really helped me

[Pat B]

If the handle area is bending at all the riser will pop off unless it flexes with the bow. If the handle area is designed properly the handle will stay on no matter what glue you use. I don't pin handles either. A wrapped handle is way stronger than a pinned handle and the wood has not been violated.

[DCM4]

Pinning won't improve the structural integrity of the joint.  But it does allow one to achieve exactly repeatable config relative to the dry fit, which is it's purpose.  Best medicine for a strong joint is good mating of all the parts.... and/or a gap filling glue.  TB is not the best for gap filling, in fact poor in my experience relative to URAC or epoxy.  URAC may not be practical for small jobs, being expensive for what amount you need and does have a shelf life, although I'd consider it generous.  Same trouble with epoxy, but it's more widely available and in smaller quantity at, for example, your local home center.  I also use a W, versus a Z.  Can't see any reason not too, and it adds 25% to the bonding surface essentially for free.