Questions about Black Locust (knot question)

[gmc]

Today, through the help of a friend, I now have a black locust stave to occupy my time over the Hollidays . After removing the bark, trimming the ends off, I now have 60 inches of usable length @ 1.5 width. Given the length, width etc., what would be a good approach far as limb and overall bow design? The stave also has its share of propeller twist....Any pointers to avoid the pitfulls of a newbies first attempt with BL is most appreciated using the wood. I'm looking for a 55lb. bow at a draw length of 28inches. The stave has very thick rings.

Thanks, Greg. 

[George Tsoukalas]

Is the stave dry? That's a bit short and narrow for BL if unbacked. Make a bend in the handle bow and back it with burlap, linen, silk or rawhide.
BL needs to have  a heartwood back so you need to remove the sapwood. BL really checks fast so after working on it you should brush on some urethane especially if you leave it for a few days. Leave the width at 1.5 in. at the handle all the way to just past mid limb. Narrow to 1/ 2 inch nocks. A good starting thickness is 1 inch-1.25 inches. Leave the handle that thickness and taper the thickness as you tiller. A 4 inch handle perhaps. Just some thoughts. Jawge
http://georgeandjoni.home.comcast.net/~georgeandjoni/

[Pat B]

First thing you need to do is seal the back and ends.  60" is pretty short but I would suggest a bend through the handle bow like an Eastern Woodland(Cherokee) style bow.  
  George, you beat me to it!!! 

[gmc]

Thanks Pat & Jawge.

Is it dry? This stave is a year old but has been stored in a shed, so the answer is no in this climate but it shouldn't take it long to get there in doors. It is pretty short but due to the hideous twist and runoff at one end I had to trim it off. I will take your advice with the bendy handle, I like bendy handle bows anyway . The 4'' handle fits my little hand just fine. The wood feels pretty dense, what would be a good target thickness off the fades? Do I still need to seal it considering the dry time its already had as I work it down? From the looks of it and the way it works with my drawknife, I may be a month of Sunday's just getting the sap wood off.

Thanks again for the response.

[Pat B]

You should seal the back and ends just for insurance. Bringing the stave from an outside shed it will have a certain amount of moisture in it. If your shop is heated the stave could check.
 Take George's suggestion of 1" to 1 1/2" thick at the handle and taper out from that.

[gmc]

Thanks Pat. You wouldn't by any chance be able to direct torwards this eastern woodland Cherokee bow that your talking about, would you? A picture would be just great.

[Pat B]

Do you have the TBB series of books? On page 76 of TBBII is a good pencil drawing with dimensions. As simple as these bows are they are very effective weapons. Just my kind of bow!

[gmc]

Thanks Pat. Yes, I got the TBB volumes but can't remember much I've read, evidently. 

Need some guidance here.....
I found a couple surprises on the back, one with 2 small pin knots located directly beside each other located mid limb and one in the handle area. I chased a ring and left one "rings worth" of wood in the knot areas. Did I handle this properly or should I do something else? There were no raised areas on the wood just the pin knots. I still need to clean up the areas a bit and not really sure if I'm on track here. I may be making more out of this than I should but with my experience working with knots thought I'd better ask. Comments appreciated. Here's a couple pictures.

Greg