Author Topic: Paddle Bow -- Tiller help  (Read 3379 times)

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Offline Canoe

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Paddle Bow -- Tiller help
« on: November 03, 2009, 01:07:38 pm »
Howdy Group,

I started this Paddle Bow a long while ago, and it has been sitting in the corner of the basement since then.  The other day, I decided to get moving on it again. 
(This is part of my on-going quest to complete projects already started before starting any new projects .)

So, here’s a Red Oak Board Bow with really good, straight grain running the whole length of the bow on the sides and edges.  It's a Paddle Bow that is 60" long and 2-3/4" wide at the widest part of each limb.

Questions…
Is the string too short?  The guy at the archery shop said that the next longer string was way too long.  But, the brace, measured from the center point, is nearly eight inches.

How’s the shape (tiller) looking to you?  And, where do I need to remove more wood?

I’d really like to turn this into a Huntin’ Bow; 45 to 50# @28”.

Your suggestions will be very much appreciated,
Canoe


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"Nature is a mutable cloud which is always and never the same."  - R. W. Emerson

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Offline Canoe

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Re: Paddle Bow -- Tiller help
« Reply #1 on: November 03, 2009, 01:15:14 pm »
The true Brace Height, on this bow is actually about 8 inches.  That seems really high!!
« Last Edit: November 03, 2009, 02:18:56 pm by Canoe »
"Nature is a mutable cloud which is always and never the same."  - R. W. Emerson

"Wilderness is not a luxury, but a necessity of the human spirit."    -Edward Abbey

Offline NTProf

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Re: Paddle Bow -- Tiller help
« Reply #2 on: November 03, 2009, 02:06:10 pm »
Yes, this is way too high and will cause unnecessary strain and set. I don't know your archery shop and owners, but most have no experience with wooden self bows and are not qualified to give advice on such matters. I have followed the advice here on PA and elsewhere, that the brace height should be just enough that the flectching clears the handel.

Offline MaceG

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Re: Paddle Bow -- Tiller help
« Reply #3 on: November 03, 2009, 02:15:35 pm »
You can get a 1/4# spool of B-50 for around $8.  Make your own strings any length you want.
Set happens - Jawge

Offline Traxx

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Re: Paddle Bow -- Tiller help
« Reply #4 on: November 03, 2009, 02:51:18 pm »
 the brace height should be just enough that the flectching clears the handel.
Once again,a blanket statement considering the vast styles of bows arrows and fletches used by various people.The brace height does seem a bit high for that bow though.Try a string that is 3" shorter than your bows nock to nock length.Or maybe 2" if you like a lower brace.I set my brace to where i get good clean flight with an arrow and it doesnt strip the skin off my arm and wrist.I dont wear a bracer,so i know when my form is off.I agree with getting string material and twisting your own.You can make strings with 1 loop and a timber hitch at the bottom.With this type string,you can set your brace where you want.With a double loop string,you have less options.

Offline RyanY

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Re: Paddle Bow -- Tiller help
« Reply #5 on: November 03, 2009, 03:30:50 pm »
According to the TBBV4 design and performance revisited, the section talking about brace height recommends a brace height of 6" for a 70" stiff handle bow also saying that similar ratios are approximately correct for shorter or longer bows. Following this rule your approximate brace height should be around 5". As for tiller, both limbs look as though they are bending well but with different tiller styles. The right limb is more circular and bends more near the handle while the left limb is more stiff toward the handle causing a more elliptical tiller. I'm no expert but because this bow has a paddle bow front view I'd say that most of the working wood should be more toward the handle, therefore the tiller should be more like the right limb. It's not completely symmetrical but that really is a beautiful bow. I can really appreciate that front view shape. I hope this helped. Good luck.

Offline Dano

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Re: Paddle Bow -- Tiller help
« Reply #6 on: November 03, 2009, 04:55:09 pm »
I think it's the opposite, being a paddle bow, all the work is in mid limb, and they look to be bending well. But I'd wait to see what El Destructo has to say, he's built a few of these. ;)
"If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy."


Nevada

Offline Del the cat

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Re: Paddle Bow -- Tiller help
« Reply #7 on: November 03, 2009, 05:03:52 pm »
Left limb is a tad stiff 1/3 of the way from the handle, the right limb is slightly stiffer nearer the tip.
I'd take a tad off the left limb at the handle end and that should even it out.
It's only a whisker out of kilter.
Del
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Offline stallion27

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Re: Paddle Bow -- Tiller help
« Reply #8 on: November 03, 2009, 05:43:57 pm »
I agree with Del's statements about your limbs. Looks pretty good to me though, I never listen to the people at the store when buying archery supplies for myself. I had a guy ask me what type of fletching jig I used and looked at me as if I had crabs coming out of my ears when I told him I fletched them without one.

I have always been less concerned with the draw weight for a hunting bow. I've always found that a well placed shot with a 40# bow is better than a poorly placed one with a 65# bow. The wood will let you know what it wants to be.
Nothing compares to the mystical flight of the arrow.

Offline adb

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Re: Paddle Bow -- Tiller help
« Reply #9 on: November 03, 2009, 06:12:39 pm »
Your tiller looks pretty decent, but your brace height is way too high!! I usually keep mine about 6", but you have to experiment to find the sweet spot. I think you could probably get your bow bending a bit more in the fades, where it's very stiff.

Offline sailordad

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Re: Paddle Bow -- Tiller help
« Reply #10 on: November 03, 2009, 06:13:54 pm »
i say wait for EL DESTRUCTO
when it comes to these paddle bows,he knows his stuff
i always wanted a harley,untill it became the "thing to ride"
i ride because i love to,not to be part of the crowd