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Author Topic: sinew and titebond 3  (Read 29189 times)

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Online Pappy

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Re: sinew and titebond 3
« Reply #30 on: October 16, 2009, 05:23:47 am »
I put the tt3 on after the hide glue and sinew was dry.Not while it was wet. :)
   Pappy
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Offline medicinewheel

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Re: sinew and titebond 3
« Reply #31 on: October 16, 2009, 09:31:34 am »
Pappy, or whoever, did you ever glue birch bark to a sinewed bow's back using TB3??
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Offline shikari

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Re: sinew and titebond 3
« Reply #32 on: October 16, 2009, 11:14:23 am »
Medicinewheel,I am verymuch interested in making asiatic hornbows,I wish I could have attended the lecture as i really admire Lukas's bows.Is there any chance of getting a transcript or coby of that lecture as I believe Lukas is tops in making hornbows.
Thanks
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Offline snedeker

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Re: sinew and titebond 3
« Reply #33 on: October 16, 2009, 11:21:06 am »
I made a 49" hickory, edge grain board, with using Titebond 2 and dry sinew. 2 layers.  Bow pulls 55# at 27#.  Back looks pretty ugly though, although black paint hides it pretty well.

Dave
« Last Edit: October 18, 2009, 01:04:15 pm by snedeker »
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Offline PatM

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Re: sinew and titebond 3
« Reply #34 on: October 16, 2009, 06:43:08 pm »
I have a sinew backed bow(Knox gelatin) with birchbark applied with TB 3. It worked well. It generally doesn't require much to hold a protective backing on.  Many glass bows have snakeskin applied with yellow carpenters glue. That probably isn't the most compatible glue with roughed up 'glass and Epoxy. It still works though.
 I can try to find a picture of the bow if you want.
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Offline medicinewheel

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Re: sinew and titebond 3
« Reply #35 on: October 18, 2009, 12:55:01 pm »
@shikari:
No I'm sorry, no transcript of the lecture; but yes you are right Lukas is very good at making these bows!
@Pat:
Yes I thought it would work, too; I seem to remember I heard of snakeskins applied to FG backs with carpenter's glue.
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Offline Dano

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Re: sinew and titebond 3
« Reply #36 on: October 18, 2009, 04:23:41 pm »
Here's a new wrinkle. I've got a sinew backed osage bow I built probably 8 years ago. The sinew was applied with hide glue, and finished with Thunderbird epoxy. Every time I draw the bow I get a cracking sound, :o and it has developed cracks across the sinew or the finish mostly, and the Thunderbird has lifted in some areas.. I have been thinking of a way to fix this one, but I think because of the epoxy I will be forced to strip it down and redo it. Any one got any ideas?
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Shadow Walker

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Re: sinew and titebond 3
« Reply #37 on: October 18, 2009, 05:36:56 pm »
Sounds like a redo to me Dano,, don't see how you could ever seperate the epoxy from the sinew.probably a lot less frustration in the long run to just redo it.
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Offline mullet

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Re: sinew and titebond 3
« Reply #38 on: October 18, 2009, 09:36:52 pm »
 Dano, spray it with nitrogen and the epoxy will pop right off. I have a can carpet restorers use to freeze chewing gum to get it out of the carpet.
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Offline Dano

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Re: sinew and titebond 3
« Reply #39 on: October 18, 2009, 10:44:56 pm »
That's a thought Eddie, That would be better on the bow. I was going to try heat, and try to loosen up the hide glue.
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Nevada

Offline Catahoula

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Re: sinew and titebond 3
« Reply #40 on: October 19, 2009, 09:24:09 pm »
Hi,

I am a flute maker...have attempted bows and so far manage to blow them all up!  I used to glue my Native American style flutes with Gorilla Glue (Lordy what a mess!!) until Fine Woodworking did a test on all the water proof glues (flutes have to be glued with a waterproof glue as when they are played they get a ton of moisture from the breath into the flute).  FWW found that TB 3 beat all the other glues in their test.  I have had zero problems with TB3 other than when sanding on a large belt sander I have to watch heat build up and keep the wood moving around glued areas.  I do use a wipe on satin poly inside and outside for finish on my flutes...so you could say the TB3 has extra protection.  Hope that helps...interesting topic.  This web site is really teaching me (an old geezer) alot.

Thanks,

Rand
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Offline sulphur

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Re: sinew and titebond 3
« Reply #41 on: October 19, 2009, 10:32:15 pm »
I'm gonna use hide glue on my sinew.  But i am not throwing out my TB3.  One other thing i use it for is sealing the ends of staves.  Works great for that, haven't had a check since i started using it.
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Offline Christophero

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Re: sinew and titebond 3
« Reply #42 on: October 21, 2009, 02:34:35 pm »
I made my first osage recurve sinewed backed bow last winter.  I pretillered it due to the learning experience.  It was 40# unbacked at 28".  Then I applied 4 layers of sinew using watered down TTB3 and let it sit in reflex for one month.  It completely dried out and the bow gained 4 # right immediately.  Later in the winter as the house got dryer it shot up to over 55# of draw wieght.  This summer my son used it for 3d shoots and I could tell it was more sluggish with the humidity in the air.  We put it on the tiller tree and checked and it read 49#.  I am hoping as the winter sets in this year it will rise in draw wieght.  It works fine but it is still suseptable to the changes in the RH from what I can tell.
Dano, maybe it would be easier to sand the Thunderbird off and reseal?
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Offline Dano

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Re: sinew and titebond 3
« Reply #43 on: October 21, 2009, 02:38:21 pm »
Chris, it's too late  ;D I have the sinew off and I am retillering the bow as we speak. Strike one for Thunderbird!!
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Offline Justin Snyder

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Re: sinew and titebond 3
« Reply #44 on: October 21, 2009, 04:16:49 pm »
Quote from: Dano on October 21, 2009, 02:38:21 pm
Chris, it's too late ;D I have the sinew off and I am retillering the bow as we speak. Strike one for Thunderbird!!
Share the knowledge Dano. Did it come off with Eddies idea?
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