sigh. trying again *pics*

[Hillbilly]

Yeah, that's a bad habit carrying a can of Copenhagen in your back pocket. It squarshes it when you sit down on it. It's a much better habit to carry your Cope in your front pocket where it stays safe.

[recurve shooter]

Yeah, that's a bad habit carrying a can of Copenhagen in your back pocket. It squarshes it when you sit down on it. It's a much better habit to carry your Cope in your front pocket where it stays safe.

lol 
only ever had one bust on me and that was on a roller coster. i smelled like wintergreen for the rest of the night. 

[Canoe]

Howdy Recurve Shooter and all others,

Regarding the bandsaw, I picked up a book on tuning my little, cheap, ol' bandsaw.  The book is 'The Bandsaw Book' by Loone Bird.  It does say that a higher quality, sharp blade is key.  It also talks about balancing, tension, and blade guides, etc.  I found it very helpful.

Since I have to carry the bandsaw up the basement stairs and outside each time I want to use it, I often opt to just go at it with my spoke shave instead.

All the Best,
Canoe

BTW, I had a coworker who used to chew a lot.  Before he died, they removed his cheek, lip, jaw...  (I'm not sure he actually died or they put him out of his misery!)    But, good luck with that. 

[SSGN_Doc]

I've tried a couple of red oak board bows.  My first was a success, but cam in very light (25# @26").  My second was a kids bow for my daughter that cracked just as I was stringing it after my last tiller adjustment removing a hinge.

I found a different online build-along for a pyramid bow that used a 1x4 red oak board and ended up with a 68" (67" ntn bow that draws 52lbs @ 26" and is a flat shooter, but it is bulky in that it is 3" wide at the fades and tapers to 1/2" at the tips.  The limb thickness ended up being a uniform 13/32".)  It also uses glued on recurves that worked out really well.  It offeres a different soulution to the problem of building a durable bow that is heavy and is made from lumber that you can acquire readily and at a reasonable price. (Though not as elegant as a thin limbed longbow, pretty is as pretty does.)

A buddy made one on the same pattern but made his limbs thinner to get a 45 lb bow.  We're 2 for two on success with this design.

It is a sweet shooter that puts arrows where I look and sends an arrow on a pretty flat trajectory.

Under $12 in lumber.

[zenmonkeyman]

Are you talking about this post by 4est Trekker at Trad Gang.com?  I was tempted to try it myself except the tool requirements exceed my grasp at the moment.

http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=125;t=002064

[SSGN_Doc]

Yes, that is the thread.  There are dimensions in there for other draw weights.  My buddy has a bandsaw.  The rest of ours was done with a ferriers rasp, or a sureform rasp, and sanding.  The build along works out pretty well though.  I was extra generous in leaving extra wood on my bow, because I doubt my skills with the bandsaw.

The glue on recurves were one of the more intriguing features of this build and they work out great.  I need to work on my attention to detail, and I could probably get the ends to blend in better with the back of the limbs.   

[zenmonkeyman]

My hat is off to you sir!  My hair is coming off too, but for reasons unrelated to your successful bow build.

[NTD]

That's a fine looking bow SSG Doc!  Good Job!

Nate