Author Topic: caul? (Read 5528 times)

knap_123 · « **on:** September 30, 2009, 04:19:47 pm »

does this caul look ok?

Hillbilly · « **Reply #1 on:** September 30, 2009, 04:32:23 pm »

It's got an awful lot of reflex, maybe too much. Other than that, looks good. I have mine set up for about 2 1/2", and the stave usually holds about 2."

bobnewboy · « **Reply #2 on:** September 30, 2009, 04:34:28 pm »

I'm sure it would work with very good quality wood e.g really top drawer osage, but the depth to length ratio seems a little extreme. I would begin more cautiously, with a longer stave length in the caul, or less depth for the recurve. How long is the stave on the top, and how deep would the tips be reflexed if they were heated to fit the caul? The likelyhood is that the bow will be difficult to tiller, and difficult to string, and will require a lot of work in ensuring that the string is very central along the stave. You may even need string bridges to keep the string on with such a large recurve depth. No harm in trying though

knap_123 · « **Reply #3 on:** September 30, 2009, 04:44:46 pm »

yeah i thought it was to much as well. i've got more wood so i'll just make another.

Josh · « **Reply #4 on:** September 30, 2009, 04:51:16 pm »

hold on to that one though, might be cool to try one with it later I think.

-josh

TBod · « **Reply #5 on:** September 30, 2009, 05:08:48 pm »

Looks good! I got similar one I just made. You can put in different amount of reflex. Don't have to be all the down. I use mine that way.

yazoo · « **Reply #6 on:** September 30, 2009, 05:37:01 pm »

I like the ones that have a back, so you can straighted and reflex at the same time, all you need is a 2x4 and a 2x6 I will post pic tomorrow

Josh · « **Reply #7 on:** September 30, 2009, 06:51:42 pm »

Yazoo that is the way I built mine, I actually just copied the one you were using at the Tenn. Classic. I have had a problem with heat bouncing off the heat gun and charring the side of the bow next to the wall a little, but I figured out how to be more careful and haven't had a problem with it since. Thanks again! -josh

Pappy · « **Reply #8 on:** October 01, 2009, 05:25:16 am »

I use ones like Yazoo,I have several but the most reflex I have is about 3 inches. I'm with
Hillbilly that may be to much and it will be a bear to get braced and not miss the weight.

Pappy

GregB · « **Reply #9 on:** October 01, 2009, 08:23:43 am »

I'd agree that it's probably to much reflex. You might also have a flat section for about 6" where the handle will rest. Of course I'm used to the ones we have at Twin Oaks that allow you to reflex, remove propellar, and tweak tips for string alignment with the handle all at the same time.

medicinewheel · « **Reply #10 on:** October 01, 2009, 09:34:38 am »

Actually Greg and Pappy, is there a description of your Twin Oaks forms available??

yazoo · « **Reply #11 on:** October 01, 2009, 11:55:40 am »

yes josh you need to watch the corners, I try to round mine off a little, I spray veg oil on while I apply heat and keep the heat gun moving

Pappy · « **Reply #12 on:** October 02, 2009, 07:11:14 am »

Here are some of ours, We used a 2x10 or 2x12 then cut the curve you want on another board and mount with screws.You can pull in reflex and also pull down to line the limbs up. Theses are really not good for heat treating because the heat will run behind the form but work great for re flexing and straighting.

Pappy

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Josh · « **Reply #13 on:** October 02, 2009, 10:55:00 am »

yep mine looks kinda like the ones in the 2nd picture. Works great! -josh

knap_123 · « **Reply #14 on:** October 02, 2009, 01:53:35 pm »

thanks, now i have something to do this weekend

Primitive Archer