help with elm stave

[criverkat]

 I cut this 9/9/09 and am going to take it down to just before floor tiller and take it inside to finish drying" I think". What do you guys think ,I  have not worked elm before, I do know that my back is just under the bark , Would like to make as short a bow a possible in 45/50# range for hunting in the thickits how should i attack this elm stave .David

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[sonny]

debark it and thin the belly a bit but leave it full width for now as it may want to warp as it dries.
matter of fact I've had full width elm staves warp on me once they were split.....though that doesn't appear to be an issue with yours.
 
 

[Ryan_Gill_HuntPrimitive]

you can either debark and seal the back or leave the bark on and keep indoors away from any bugs, although i have never actually had any elm staves eaten by bugs, best to be safe. either way seal the tips.  if you want to work it down some go for it but the thinner it is the greater the risk of it twisting as it dries. i have had some stay perfect and other that twist every which way to  sunday.  looks like a nice piece than should yield a dandy of a bow!   good luck with it- Ryan

[criverkat]

What the shortest bow for that weight with elm

[hammertime]

I would keep it long for now 66-68 but once tillered to brace height you could shorten to 58-60 if you keep the limbs wider I would work the stave down to a 2" by 2" square take the bark off and seal the ends for drying-just some thoughts.Hammetime

[criverkat]

what is this i cleaned up one and left the other alone i think it is a knot what should i do

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[sailordad]

its either a fossile in the wood
or its where the was cacoon and the bugs burrowed away after the hatch

[criverkat]

i think your wright about the bugs got all the bark off only thing holding me up now is a 1/2 inch knot hole in the middle of the stave don't think i can miss it so i guess i will have to incorporate it some how

[sailordad]

lets see a pic of the stave and the knot
if its in the middle of the stave,where the center of the limb would be.then its easy,just work around it.
if its off to the side you can still work "around it" and make it work on the limb.
pics will help get great advise.

[criverkat]

OK here are some pics the stave is 72 inch the knot hole is right at 30 inch

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[wannabe]

The funny pattern looks like the markings of the elm bark beetle as they emerge in larval form. They can carry Dutch Elm Disease.

Another example of this beetle's work in this photo


Just, if you're interested. An article on the beetle and Dutch Elm Disease can be found here http://www.ag.ndsu.edu/pubs/plantsci/trees/pp324w.htm.

It's not really relevant to making the bow, but if you get this wood in one grove and it is infected with DED then you might want to be sure that the wood isn't brought to another grove with vulnerable Elm trees.

[Ryan_Gill_HuntPrimitive]

i wouldnt think twice of using that piece of wood. as you get it worked a little closer to bow dimensions wrap around those areas good with sinew and titebond.  its more of a pain to tiller, and you may have to cut the sinew off a few times till the bow is totally done but it should last with no problem. also elm is pretty darn tough.  you could just go ahead and tiller the bow and take a chance of it breaking.  keep it long for now. once you get the bow bent good then wrapp it up before you shoot it.  sometimes its the shock of letting the string go that does the most damage.  you got nothing to lose! just go slow since its already handicapped.  - Ryan

[criverkat]

thanks ryan sonds like good advice i will let yall know how it turns out