Author Topic: Bow building  (Read 2873 times)

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Offline tiknuttle

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Bow building
« on: August 04, 2009, 12:07:28 am »
What is the best way to get the back of  a bow from a split sapling to one growth ring? Can I just peel the bark and sap wood of the back of the bow and then just take the wood of from the belly to shape and tiller the bow?

Offline sailordad

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Re: Bow building
« Reply #1 on: August 04, 2009, 12:13:56 am »
what kinf of wood are we talking about here?

if its a white wood such as hick,ash elm, then peel of the bark and cambium layer and thats your bows back
if its a heartwood like osage,black locust then most folks go to a predetermined growth ring in the heart wood
i always wanted a harley,untill it became the "thing to ride"
i ride because i love to,not to be part of the crowd

Offline yazoo

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Re: Bow building
« Reply #2 on: August 04, 2009, 12:14:41 am »
what kind of wood? if white wood you can peel off the bark.
if you can shoot over them , they ain't to far

Offline Pat B

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Re: Bow building
« Reply #3 on: August 04, 2009, 12:19:43 am »
  seems to be a consensus!  ;D
It really depends on the wood you are using. If you are using woods like osage, locust or mulberry you remove the bark and sapwood and find a good clear heartwood ring to use as your bows back. Usually lots of elbow greased involved.
   With whitewoods like ash, hickory, maple, elm and many others you cut your wood during the growing season, peel the bark and cambium off and the wood unde is your bows back. A lot less work plus a good natural back for your bow.
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC

Offline tiknuttle

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Re: Bow building
« Reply #4 on: August 04, 2009, 12:20:47 am »
Elm

Offline tiknuttle

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Re: Bow building
« Reply #5 on: August 04, 2009, 12:22:02 am »
Thanks for the advice Pat

Offline Del the cat

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    • Derek Hutchison Native Wood Self Bows
Re: Bow building
« Reply #6 on: August 04, 2009, 01:21:43 pm »
You can just strip the bark, but you may find you need to de-crown it as tillering progresses if it's a smallish diameter stave, to avoid it getting too narrow.
Depends on the draw weight you are aiming for of course.
Del
Health warning, these posts may contain traces of nut.

Offline tiknuttle

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Re: Bow building
« Reply #7 on: August 04, 2009, 02:26:24 pm »
im going for the 50 to 60lb range.

Offline Kegan

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Re: Bow building
« Reply #8 on: August 04, 2009, 06:43:51 pm »