sap wood on osage

[woodsrunner]

Anyone out there ever made a bow with the sap wood still on an Osage. I got a stave from Ed Scott a couple of years ago that still has the sap on ( stave is at least 4 years old). My question is when i take the sap down do i still work around the knots, or disregard them and get as close to 1/8th as possible across the back? I really want to do a sap on bow but not sure which way to go. Thankful for any help.

[snedeker]

Matt SImpson and I made shortish d bows from sister branch pieces a while back with just a hint of heartwood left.  I was surpised how well the sapwod worked.

Dave

[George Tsoukalas]

Yes, I have. Jawge

[George Tsoukalas]

I didn't finish my thought. The best scenario is take it off if you can. Otherwise have the back be as close to the heartwood as possible. There is no reason other than that to do a sapwood on bow other than the one I mentioned at least if you want the best possible situation. The knot should be, at least ideally, at the same growth ring as the rest of the bow. If  possible leave the knot wider at the limb. Tiller the knot to appear VERY slightly stiffer tan the rest of the limb. Enjoy. Jawge

[Adam Keiper]

By convention, I remove all the sapwood on most osage bows, but I have done a few with a ring or two of sapwood left on.  They seem to shoot fine.  I think the key is using osage that has no damage from rot, bugs, or checking.  If the sapwood shows any spalting or other damage, then absolutely take it off.

[Timo]

I've built a couple sapwood osage bows,I can see no difference in them or those with the sap off. Like Adam said it has to be sound.

I did an experiment last year by cutting an osage tree in the summer, and peeling the bark off like a hickory.I let the main moisture flash off for about an hour, and then coated it with 4 heavy coats of shellac.(letting them dry well between coats) No checking.