when Gorrilla Glue or Pro Bond start to cure there is a foaming action...anf this leaves minute air bubbles in your glue joint which is a big No No!! I almost always use Titebond 2 or 3....but have used Urac a time or three....but I don't like the Shelf Life of it....this G-Flex sounds pretty promising....if it will glue woods like Teak and Ipe together without any problems from the Oils...it should do great....and from what I have read about it....I am up for trying it for sure......here is what the Company says about it....
Properties of G/flex Epoxy that make it superior for use by boaters:
Toughness and flexibility: G/flex has been “toughened,” formulated to give bonds that can absorb the stresses of expansion, contraction, shock and vibration. It’s resilient, impact resistant and more flexible than other epoxies, some three-times more flexible than most.
It bonds well to a variety of materials, including dissimilar ones: Plastics, metals, fiberglass, wood, ceramics, rubber and much more.
It’s easy to use: Resin and hardener are mixed in a 1-to-1 ratio, by volume. It has a relatively long open working time, yet it cures quickly and can be used in cool temperatures.
It gives good adhesion to wet and damp surfaces: It lets you glue to damp woods. It can be used on wet surfaces, even underwater when applied with specific techniques.
It gives excellent adhesion to hard-to-bond woods: Domestic and exotic woods that are hard to glue, like white oak, teak, purpleheart and ipe bond successfully with G/flex.
It’s great for so much more than boats and boating equipment! You’ll find many more uses for G/flex. Glue and repair leather and synthetic shoes and boots, seal gutters and drains, bond coated and uncoated fabrics. Repair spas, snowmobile and motorcycle fenders, tubs and showers, tool handles, hockey sticks, tennis and racquetball rackets, household ceramics and so much more!
