Author Topic: Nock Overlays  (Read 3156 times)

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Offline Jmilbrandt

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Nock Overlays
« on: March 11, 2009, 01:25:19 am »
On some of the overlays I have seen on this site it looks like the tips of the bow were filed flat angling down towards the ends. Is that what you guys are doing and if it is isn't that dangerous since you are cutting through the growth rings. If there is a way to make that work that would be great because I can't ever get a tight glue line on my overlays. >:(
SW Utah

Offline GregB

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Re: Nock Overlays
« Reply #1 on: March 11, 2009, 07:59:06 am »
I think I understand what you're asking...instead of the overlay surface being parallel and even with the rest of the bows back, the overlay surface cuts down diagonallly from back to belly toward the tips???

That's how I've been doing all my overlays without any problems. I personally think it allows for a more stream line overlay that looks better then an overlay just sitting on top of the bows back.
Greg

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DCM

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Re: Nock Overlays
« Reply #2 on: March 11, 2009, 08:22:27 am »
The tight glue line is about having both surfaces be flat, and mate up togethers perfectly.  Use a straight edge and stand it upon the surface and look at the light coming from under.  Once a straight edge will lay flat across both, they'll glue up tight.

The angled taper I think is for aesthetics, and I think started w/ boo backed bows where typically one fades the boo off at the end. I think it looks cool and will be as sound as any other approach.  That last two inches of limb should not ever bend anyway, and the glue should hold easily.

Offline Timo

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Re: Nock Overlays
« Reply #3 on: March 11, 2009, 08:39:11 am »
I use a big wide flat file to acheive  a good glueing surface. Like DCM, I hold the dry fit up to a light to see were it needs more wood removed. I just glue up with a gel type super glue, I clamp the front part with one of those stiff spring clamps and use a small c-clamp on the very tip. Not sure if alot of clamping is necessary, kinda depends on how long your overlay is.

Offline Ryano

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Re: Nock Overlays
« Reply #4 on: March 11, 2009, 08:54:01 am »
The others have given you the right answers....Timo, I've goten away from using clamps at all on the tip overlays. I use titebond three for antler tips and just stick'em on with masking tape. Works for me.
Its November, I'm gone hunt'in.......
Osage is still better.....

Offline Timo

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Re: Nock Overlays
« Reply #5 on: March 11, 2009, 08:58:52 am »
Thought about that Ryan, but there is this thing in my head that tells me not too? :) I gotta lightin up and get with the new age..:)

Offline Pappy

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Re: Nock Overlays
« Reply #6 on: March 11, 2009, 10:40:15 am »
I use squeeze clamps with TB3 on mine.I don't cut them at an angle for the reason you mentioned but have seen a lot here that do and have seen no bad effects from it. To each there own  I like mine alright so just never changed,I with you Timo I need to get with the times.  ;) ;D
   Pappy
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Offline Jmilbrandt

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Re: Nock Overlays
« Reply #7 on: March 11, 2009, 05:06:44 pm »
Thanks guys I'll have to try that on my next bow.
SW Utah

Offline medicinewheel

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Re: Nock Overlays
« Reply #8 on: March 11, 2009, 05:52:47 pm »

Hey J.!  -  I had a thread in the build-along section on tip overlays a while back, and also Gordon's Hazelnut Bow build-along shows a pretty good how-to for overlays!
F.
Frank from Germany...

Offline Muina

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Re: Nock Overlays
« Reply #9 on: March 11, 2009, 07:20:18 pm »
I always have problems with using clamps on tip overlays, because of the angle that the tips are glued on at the clamps always slip off while the glue's drying, so I use a rubber band or a little bit of innertube.

Also, be carefull not to file the nocks down too much, I've done that many a time and have the overlay break where the string sits. Then the bottom of it will just come off because of the smaller surface that's glued.