Author Topic: Spliceing Billets  (Read 5248 times)

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Offline Timo

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Spliceing Billets
« on: February 28, 2009, 08:39:12 am »
Snowin here today so looks like some shop time. Got lots of billets that need joined.

Question: Why is the standard 4" for a splice? I always have to make my handle wrap cover the tips of my splice,just the way I am. So that means making the wrap bigger than I want sometimes.

Why not cut the splice shorter? 3 1/2"......3"?

Offline Ryano

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Re: Spliceing Billets
« Reply #1 on: February 28, 2009, 09:17:42 am »
Tim, I have shortend mine up to 3 1/2 with no trouble. I like to cut a arrow shelf into my bows and with a 4" splice you nearly cut into the splice. I had a bow blow on me at full draw once because of that so I started shorting mine up.
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Offline Eric Krewson

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Re: Splicing Billets
« Reply #2 on: February 28, 2009, 09:55:39 am »
I almost always make a 3 1/2" splice so I can move my grip up or down to the sweet spot and still have the splice hidden under the leather. I also glue on a cap on the back of most of my handles to reinforce the splice, never had a failure.

Here is one of my glued on caps, this one pretty thick, they are usually about 1/2".




Offline Timo

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Re: Spliceing Billets
« Reply #3 on: February 28, 2009, 02:22:01 pm »
I was thinking 3.5" so I  already got a couple pairs ready this morn.

Nice looking splice Eric. You guys ever pin them?

I started doing that mainly for fitting. Get it dry fit well, and set a 1/4" dowel.Then when ya glue up,just pop in the pin, and clamp.No worries.:)

whitewoodshunter

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Re: Spliceing Billets
« Reply #4 on: February 28, 2009, 04:32:21 pm »
I pinned one once, but it was after the glue on the splice had set up.I am not sure the pin was necessary but it didn't hurt the bow .

Offline Mattco

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Re: Spliceing Billets
« Reply #5 on: February 28, 2009, 10:20:33 pm »
I used to make all my splices 4" - but didn't like having part of the splice exposed - I shortened to 3 1/2"  - problem solve
When I tried a 3" splice it began to squish itself apart which then had to be pinned

Offline Marc St Louis

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Re: Spliceing Billets
« Reply #6 on: February 28, 2009, 11:14:50 pm »
I make my splices as short as 2" but I don't use a conventional splice.  I use a tapered finger joint.  Never had a spliced joint fail using this splice even on a center shot bow
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Offline Timo

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Re: Spliceing Billets
« Reply #7 on: March 01, 2009, 12:00:58 am »
Marc, can you explain how you make it?

Offline El Destructo

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Re: Spliceing Billets
« Reply #8 on: March 01, 2009, 12:13:15 am »
Marc...do you just use a Table Saw Blade to cut the Finger Joints...or a Dado Blade??
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Offline Marc St Louis

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Re: Spliceing Billets
« Reply #9 on: March 01, 2009, 07:59:24 am »
Wrote an article for PA on it.
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Offline Timo

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Re: Spliceing Billets
« Reply #10 on: March 01, 2009, 08:35:55 am »
10-4 Marc,copy that.:)

I got a couple glued up yesterday,with a 3.5" splice. I always look forward to the next morning when I get to see how bad my joints are.:)

Offline Eric Krewson

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Re: Spliceing Billets
« Reply #11 on: March 01, 2009, 10:13:46 am »
If you get a real sloppy splice fit, heat up both ends with your heat gun and clamp them together without glue. They will conform to each other and glue up much better.

Offline Timo

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Re: Spliceing Billets
« Reply #12 on: March 01, 2009, 11:19:48 am »
Never tried dry heat, I used to boil ,now I just make sure they fit right before I glue.

Just removed clamps and they look good.

Offline Shaun

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Re: Spliceing Billets
« Reply #13 on: March 02, 2009, 01:51:46 am »
Timo, Gary Davis showed me his method and there were a couple of very helpful ideas. One; sand or joint the bottom of the billets at the splice area at a slight slope towards the splice end - this makes bandsawing much steadier on the flat surface and installs some backset from the slope. Two; make the bottom of your cuts and the points about 1/8" instead of a point - this allows the joint to hit a solid bottom and avoids the wafer thin point that gets shortened by minor mis sawing.

I was looking at a very old Grumley recently and it appeared that the splice was a V on the end of each billet and a long narrow diamond for the handle. This might have been to make use of short billets.