sinue backing

[Little John]

I can't seem to find a build a long on sinue backing, but have read about it in the TBB. Was going to use TBIII. Is there any thing special I need to know about.How big can the bundles be?  I guess pretty much dip the bundles and lay them out on the bow as neatly as possible and sqweegie off the excess glue? Then fill in the gaps and add another layer when dry enough? Is the TBIII really water pruff? Any advice appreciated.    Kenneth

[Ryano]

Titebond glue won't pull the stave into reflex so you need to add reflex to the bow first before applying the sinew. Also you need to soak the strands of sinew in warm water before dipping them in the glue and applying them to the bow. I did a couple bows sinewed with titebond and I feel it does little for the performance of the bow. I've gone back to using knox gelitin with a snakeskin over the sinew back glued on with titebond which helps waterproof it.

[Keenan]

  LJ, I would have to agree with Ryan. Though I have only done a couple with TB. I have had better results re-flexing with my own sinew glue. Here are some pics of some prep and size bundles that I do. These were smaller leg sinews witch are more work then the longer ones.

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[JackCrafty]

My first build along has info on sinew backing.  Here's the link:
http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,9076.0.html

(See Replies #39 to #43).

Everybody (except me) uses ace bandages for wrapping, not twine.  Also, you can use thicker strands of sinew if the thought of spending hours applying thin strands doesn't appeal to you.  I recommend staying away from bundles if you are just starting out.....they are harder to apply than individual strands, especially if you mess up and try to smooth them out or if you try to remove the bundle and re-apply it.

Sinew is not like rawhide and some people confuse the two.  Sinew does not need to be soaked for long periods (like rawhide) and sinew should not be sanded too much after it is applied.

Never tried using TB as a glue for sinew backing.  I've heard good things and bad.  Personally, if I'm going to go through the trouble of preparing sinew, I might as well use hide glue, knox, or fish glue.

[swink]

I like TB but it will take 6 months to cure. The last one I made picked up 5 lbs in 6 months. 

[napper]

Hide glue is best. I make my bundles about the size of a pencil I place them in warm water then squeeze them out and put them in the warm hide glue start from the center of handle and work out on one side then the other.

[Pat B]

Kenneth, in your climate hide glue and sinew would are a perfect match. I soaked the sinew first until soft then into the glue, squeeze off the excess and lay it down on a sized back.  I went down the center of the bow with the first batch then out to the edges of each limb. The crown of the back is where it is most effective. Two or 3 layers down the center of the back and less as you go over to the outside of each limb.
   On Elkie I didn't put sinew over the handle. That was a mistake. I think you need the tension all the way along the back, working against itself, to get the full effect of the sinew. On the tips it doesn't matter and you are better off keeping the sinew and glue off the non working tips. Just extra weight.

[Little John]

Thanks guys. The bow I am working on is a hickory Holmie that pulled up a small splinter as one section of working limb was doing more than its share. It Has a heat treated bellie and four inches of reflex so I am backing to save the bow and to add draw weight so I can retiller a bit to spread out the stress a bit more with out losing weight. Not really intrested in adding performance as I think I will have plenty, So what do ya think. I started out with 5" of heat treated reflex and still have 4" after having the bow drawn to 26" on tiller tree, that is when I heard the tick. The splinter is so small I had a hard time finding it. The first ring under the bark seems paper thin but I went with it for the partial cambium efect.   kenneth

[swink]

silk back and re-tiller. Silk should do what you need with less weight and a lot less time. I would also put some super glue in the crack before you back it. see what the others say with more bow building experience. you will not pick up any more draw weight with silk thow.

[Keenan]

    LJ, 
        If you are not after increasing performance and already have 4" of reflex, then I would not use sinew. Take a small knive or blade and carefully lift the splinter and get as much super glue in as possible. then clamp it down gently. Then you could either do a thread wrap there or a linnen backing full length. 
  Silk is light. True,However it stretches much more then linnen.                                             

[Little John]

Keenan, I have never heard of lennen a backing material. Where would you get it and is TBIII still a good choice? Man you have a lot of sinue processed. Have you ever done sinue strings?

[Pat B]

Kenneth, You can get linen from a good cloth store of buy a linen blouse, skirt or pants from a used clothes store. TBIII glue works fine with linen.
  I like to get the cloth damp(not wet) first. I think it eliminates the surface tension of the cloth allowing the glue to penetrate better.     Pat

[D. Tiller]

Yep, stick with clear unflavored knox gelitin. Best hide glue on the market.

I tried TBIII and have to say I do not like it all that much. Use the hide glue and you will be much happier with it.

David T