Author Topic: Osage flat bow tip thickness min (Read 8844 times)

Justin Snyder · « **Reply #15 on:** December 16, 2008, 09:15:35 pm »

You don't really want to put that much pressure on the limbs right now. Try to never go beyond what the final draw weight will be. If you want 50# you never draw over 50 while tillering. It is real tough to tell how much pressure you are putting on while floor tillering. That is why most guys get a long string on as quick as possible. The area that is gouged to 3/8" is probably strong enough for a 50# bow at least. Tiller is slow and easy, but make sure it isn't bending too far in that spot. Work on the limbs until they are bending everywhere as easily as they are in that spot. If that spot is weaker than the rest you will wind up with a hinge and a lot of set in that spot. Justin

servicebeary · « **Reply #16 on:** December 17, 2008, 11:06:19 am »

roger that, and thanks, I'll draw that line on the side and make sure it doesn't bend.
thanks again Justin, -nick

Susquehannock · « **Reply #17 on:** December 17, 2008, 11:34:09 pm »

I had trouble with the tip of a bbo that I did recently. I got the tips too thin and they were bending too much. As a fix, I glued a belly "underlay" on both tips and it worked just fine. Here's a pic of the belly of the bow. The belly is osage and the tips are purpleheart.

Jason

Susquehannock · « **Reply #18 on:** December 17, 2008, 11:35:02 pm »

Here's the pic that I was talking about:

[attachment deleted by admin]

Pappy · « **Reply #19 on:** December 18, 2008, 06:01:56 am »

Nice save Jason,good idea. I have done that on a hindge but never thought of it on the tips.
Looks good also.

Pappy

servicebeary · « **Reply #20 on:** December 18, 2008, 11:11:48 am »

that is a beautiful bow, thanks for the idea. When they say the tips shouldn't bend the last 6" or so, should that be 8" for a 69" ntn? or does it really matter?

Justin Snyder · « **Reply #21 on:** December 18, 2008, 11:24:07 am »

6" is plenty. I like Jason's idea also. I have designed bows like that but never used it as a patch.

servicebeary · « **Reply #22 on:** December 18, 2008, 11:48:28 pm »

thanks again, I'll let you all know when I finally make or brake it. works crazy so might be a month or so.

servicebeary · « **Reply #23 on:** January 11, 2009, 12:43:22 am »

Hey all, figured I'd put an update since I hope to get the bow to full draw tomorrow. With a string I've got it pulled back about a foot and on a scale at about 8 inches it was pulling 35lbs and the maimed tip bends maybe 1/4" at that 35lb draw. I'm thinking that the 62" is a good plan, but it will only get me about 5/16ths in thickness. So if I change my 1/2" wide tips to 5/8" or 3/4" would that dramatically reduce performance? and how wide should I go at 62" to hold up for 50-55# ? and oh yah! I got yet another question if I haven't ran everyone off yet

Could I change this to a band through the handle design to lessen the load? And now for a crazy question! Can I make a bend through the handle into a take down?? would be difficult to keep structural integrity wouldn't it?
man I love this site, can't wait til I work less and can build bows more, -nick

Pappy · « **Reply #24 on:** January 12, 2009, 08:47:17 am »

I would say no,the sleeves I used are ridged. Someone may come up with a better idea.

Pappy

Primitive Archer