Ok new bow and a new problem on my 2nd bow.

[seantOH]

PatB,

As far as working the bow after removing wood, I am floor tillering each side 30 times and then I put it on the tillering tree and pull it progressively to 22" 50 times.  Should I work it more?

sean

[seantOH]

Justin,

Thanks!  IT has not twisted since that original time and it seems to be stable now, the string seems track in the middle of the handle and limbs.

sean

[Justin Snyder]

PatB,

As far as working the bow after removing wood, I am floor tillering each side 30 times and then I put it on the tillering tree and pull it progressively to 22" 50 times.  Should I work it more?

sean

I don't think there is a magic number to pull, but 50 is probably plenty. I guess I don't understand the progressively to 22". I hope you aren't pulling beyond the target weight as this would do unrepairable damage to the wood. Anyway, the point to Pat's post and mine is just to make sure you are exercising the limbs. If you hit target weight by pulling to 15", pull no more than 15", but do it a bunch.

[seantOH]

Ok I have added tip overlays and I think I am done with the tiller on this bow.  Please let me know what you think about the tiller.  This is a BBO osage bow.  It is 63.5 ntn and 66" overall.  The left limb, as you look at the picture, is 1.5" longer than the right limb.  I was trying to make the bow 50-55 lbs at 24".  It is currently 58 lbs at 24".  I am afraid to remove any more wood because I don't want to screw it up when I am so close.  Be brutal  and tell me if I should do anything esle to this bow.  Thanks and take care!

sean

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[adb]

Tiller looks right on to me.

[Josh]

looks good I'd leave it.  If you want the extra 3-8 lbs you can remove a little wood in long, even strokes equally down both limbs.  I would just do like 2 or 3 per limb and then go back to the tree to exercise it.  Even a little wood removal now will drastically effect the tiller and draw weight now.  Have you sanded all your tool marks out yet or rounded all your edges off?  If not you can go ahead and get that done that will sometimes cause a 2-3 lb weight decrease too.      -josh

[Innocente]

seantOH:
your tiller grid behind your tillering stick is the best i've seen.  i'mma copy that idea today!  it's SO easy to see assymetry with your battleship style grid!

[Mechslasher]

i wouldn't remove any more wood until you have shot the bow 100-200 times.  chances are the bow will loose 3-5#s after shooting it in.

[radius]

With a R/D bow I made a little while back, I found that when stringing, I had to brace it pretty high or it was unstable like yours. Do more floor tillering before trying to string it again.
    Sean

You will need to brace it a bit higher.. I looks like when you braced it your string streched or Make sure your knot is not sliping past its self..

I agree..... I never brace a bow low if it has much reflex. I like full brace or no brace at all on those types of bows.
[/quote

i had two staves this year that were strongly reflexed and which did exactly what you show there.   The way around it, is to shorten the string.   I may have been to aggressive with it, because the one stave took a kink in the lower limb.  But even so, i tillered it to bend properly and that is a wild-fast bow.