does this make sense to you

[Ryan_Gill_HuntPrimitive]

in keeping with primitive archery, i dont like scales or gauges.  i dont officially spine my shafts, i hand spine for what feels right and my hand spining works really well for that.
     problem is, i shoot cane arrows almost exclusively. the trade points i used to make had tangs on them and took more time to cut out so i now just use triangle points, which ofcourse are a bit lighter.
   i never had inconsistency with my old arrows and trade points.

     I made 12 new cane arrows with triangle trade points  6 of them hit right on, and the other 6 all group together 6- 8 inches high of the bullseye at 10 yards AND 20 yards. i call them my mile high club.
   i tried to figure out this new problem and the onlything that is really different is the ones that shoot high, except for 1, have 1 inch less FOC than the ones that hit right on.  so i took one of the mile high club and wrapped tape around the fore end several times until the FOC was the same as my good set.  it shot much better, just a little high, but much much better.

    so the conclusion is i need to take the points off of the mile high club and replace them with heavier tradepoints.   does this make sense to you?   just the weight loss of a short tang could be throwing my arrows higher?

[Pat B]

You might be able to add weight to the shaft by adding sand(primitive) or lead to the center hole to make the FOC the same on all.     Pat

[Kegan]

Yes it does. I have the same trouble swtiching from 75 gr. blunts to 125 gr. broadheads. Now I'm looking into 125 gr. blunts and field points.

[mullet]

 It makes a lot of sense. You can also add weight by wrapping the shaft behind the point with copper wire or steel bailing wire, and still be primitive.

[Ryan_Gill_HuntPrimitive]

thanks guys, yeah it makes sense tome too, i just wanted to make sure i wasnt losing it with thinking of all this weight stuff. i may just make a few new points and save these ones for someone who needs some lighter ones.- Ryan