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We self-bow types tend to see this as a problem to be solved when in fact it may be more of an instance of trying to prevent dogs from barking or roosters from crowing. Certainly there are processes that can lessen or delay the onset of string-follow and there are woods that seem largely unaffected by it (Osage, cherry, red cedar, ash, and mesquite come to mind), but often nothing can eliminate it entirely. Tillering a bow from a naturally reflexed stave gives us an obvious head start. Crowning the belly to increase its compression mass is another semi-solution. Heat-treating the belly or perhaps the whole bow definitely helps to give the bow a preset profile by hardening its compression mass. Recurves put more mass within the confines of a given string length (there are other factors as well). A “bend thru the handle” design does the same thing with less hassle, but possibly with less grace. “Stuffing the wood” as in salt water curing also helps (see PA Dec./Jan. 07). This promising treatment apparently works by infusing the wood’s internal fiber and especially its cellular structure with crystalline molecules suspended in water which then resolidify as the wood dries out. The cell walls should be reinforced with an encrustation of tiny crystals, if not actually filled to some extent, as a result. For a brief example, sit on an empty cereal box and it will collapse. Fill it with salt or sand and try again; it will not collapse. The presence of crystals inside the cells takes up the space that would normally be filled with air, thus preventing them from compressing as much. Somewhere in my memory are recollections of cardboard boxes of rock salt which became wet and then dried out, transforming the unit into something resembling a brick— learn from it what we may. At any rate, bows thus treated will retain more memory of their original dimensions and, consequently, acquire less string follow. This induced form of semipetrification should also increase density and mass. Stradivarius violins were made from wood which had been floated down river over long distances, soaking in mineral-rich water apparently imparting to it an unusually vibrant and harmonic nature. Though, all this a very plausible theory in my mind, hard scientific evidence of exactly how it works is presently in short supply. Aside from the disadvantage of a long treatment cycle, salt-water treatment may turn out to be a major cure, especially for white wood deflex. I have not tried it yet owing partly to the fact that there are presently no oceans in the Ozarks although the eventual mega-quake scientists are predicting could change that. However, a salt and water paste applied liberally to the bow’s belly, sealed with plastic sheeting and left to soak in just might, hmmm? Work? I wonder if substituting sugar for the salt might make a really “sweet-shooting bow”? Or even using a pressure chamber to force the liquid chemicals in as some tanneries are presently doing to speed up the tanning process? But, I seem to be indulging myself in flights of fancy here so allow me to rejoin by mentioning that belly laminations of high compression wood can also help stringfollow, especially as a last resort. It is, however, generally more work than my tired old hands want to do. Finally, just allowing the stave or bow to dry thoroughly before shooting it can be beneficial. It does seem that we have tried everything to defeat our old nemesis except, perhaps, the most obvious.
Amazingly, such weapons will still propel very lethal arrows. Even though the cast is somewhat reduced, it is still deadly at ranges where most of us can truly hit what we shoot at. Try it if you want a real surprise—I’m serious. About ten years ago, I took a scrap twig of Ash Juniper from Central Texas and made a small (33- inch) bow about as big around as an index finger. It is tillered only enough to be somewhat balanced and is round in cross-section. I braced it at about 5 inches while it was still green and set it aside to dry, planning to make a decorator wall hanger. That ridiculous, hopelessly crooked little 15-pound bow, strung at very low tension, will now shoot a 28-inch arrow over ninety yards! So, for us guys who must have a traditional looking curved bow, why not deliberately induce a pronounced deflex into a short stiff bow and then brace it at minimal tension? Even simpler, just tiller it from a naturally deflexed stave to begin with. Even a short bow can come to anchor this way and still not be over-stressed. We don’t call them “bows” for nothing! Ha! Okay, that was a bad joke, but can you imagine nearly 100% usage of staves?! No rejects? We can now use anything that grows to make a bow! Well, probably not sunflower or Poke sallet, but you get the idea. No matter how you slice it, it is over-stressing that breaks most bows, yet this type of bow would only be as stressed at full draw as a regular bow is at brace. Yes, I know you’re still underwhelmed, but why is that? It is only because we are still so performancedriven and proud of our traditional bowyer skills that we have a problem. And those are good things indeed. I would never ask or hope that anyone give up the essence of our sport. I love that essence, too. And yet, is there no cleverness that we can distill from these applications, time tested under primitive conditions as they were? After all, every type of bow has certain design parameters and distinctive traits that allow us to assign it a category and a name. Perhaps we should just revive this category of archery equipment and give it a catchy name. Intentionally deflexed bows, ultra-primitive archery or something of the sort, just not “Miller bows” or Terminally Relaxed (which sounds to me like a moniker for The Grateful Dead). Such bows might make a great home defense bow, knock-about, keep it behind the pick-up seat, woods wandering, stump-shooting survival bow. Or you could challenge
yourself to create a truly savage-looking work of art. One that
a head-hunter might use on his sorties complete with crude tool
marks, patination, and your choice of ornate savage decorations
and esoteric “medicine” symbols. Add a gnarly-looking
self-made string, and it would make one cool and exotic wall-hanger
or conversation piece, especially if African, extra-long, daggerpointed
arrows were included in the display. How’s that for primitive?
It would also be ready for instant use against a dangerous intruder.
Imagine yourself a burglar unexpectedly bumping into a wildeyed
homeowner pointing the business end of a cannibal arrow at your
abdomen. Oh yeah! Big-time reality check! “Please don’t
shoot mister, I must be in the wrong You could at least
try it with that impossibly crooked stave that you can’t
seem to throw away. Hey, I’m in quicksand here! So throw
me a rope, not stones. Hey, that looks like good flint! Okay, go
ahead with the stones, just try to miss! This is an easy project,
after all; a refreshing change of pace and a chance to “lighten-up” (dare
I say relax?). Come on, work with me on this; after all, crazy “alternative” styles
of all sorts are becoming more and more respectable. No, I did
not cause it! It was like that when I got here! Besides, being Okay, one last try. I bet you will learnsomething new, possibly something that few others presently know. If this doesn’t make the project worthwhile, I give up. Or instead, maybe I should “give down” or possibly “give diagonally.” Or perhaps with a rotational motion or…. Okay! Okay! Don’t shoot! I’m outta’ here! |
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